Borgeson Steering Box?

Is there something wrong with the existing box?

If this were me, I'd pull it off of the frame when the other steering parts are removed. Replace leaking seals, if any. Then perform the TWO adjustments per the service manual. Inspect the frame for cracks and rust. If the frame is OK...put the existing steering gear right back on.

Lots of steering gears get replaced when all they really need is an adjustment, and maybe some seals.

Schurkey said:

Is there something wrong with the existing box?

If this were me, I'd pull it off of the frame when the other steering parts are removed. Replace leaking seals, if any. Then perform the TWO adjustments per the service manual. Inspect the frame for cracks and rust. If the frame is OK...put the existing steering gear right back on.

Lots of steering gears get replaced when all they really need is an adjustment, and maybe some seals.

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Shurkey,
One of these days, in your "vast" spare time, It would be great if you could post a tutorial on how you adjust your steering gears.

alpinecrick said:

Shurkey,
One of these days, in your "vast" spare time, It would be great if you could post a tutorial on how you adjust your steering gears.

Click to expand...

Sections 12 and 13.
www.chevelles.com/attachments/powerstrggear-4-jpg.692112/

The full rebuild instructions are on the same site:

Which is one of three web pages authored by Jim Shea, a former Saginaw steering-gear employee.

It's one of those things detailed in the factory service manual, yet most people just go for the one adjustment on top of the box because that's the easy route. If they read the manual they'll see it's a lot more involved. That one adjustment on top of the box is the wrong, wrong way to go.

Richard

someotherguy said:

That one adjustment on top of the box is the wrong, wrong way to go.

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Not so much "wrong", but incomplete, and it's the second of two adjustments needed.

Schurkey said:

Not so much "wrong", but incomplete, and it's the second of two adjustments needed.

Click to expand...

Could've been worded better, possibly. I say "wrong" because it is indeed incomplete. Wrong procedure to only do that one adjustment.

Richard

Schurkey said:

Sections 12 and 13.
www.chevelles.com/attachments/powerstrggear-4-jpg.692112/

Power Steering Diagrams

www.chevelles.com

The full rebuild instructions are on the same site:

Power Steering Diagrams

www.chevelles.com

Which is one of three web pages authored by Jim Shea, a former Saginaw steering-gear employee.

Jim Shea's Power Steering pages

www.chevelles.com

Click to expand...

There are several good youtube videos also. I just want to hear your version, because I have listened to several minor variations of the process.

Lots of steering gears get replaced when all they really need is an adjustment, and maybe some seals.

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True statement! I know this is an old thread, but check the rag joint & the intermediate shaft on your truck first. And the steering column lower bearing/bushing. They are an oft-overlooked source of steering slop.

Good way to check them is to 1) Remove (or raise up from the steering box) the lower plastic steering shaft cover at the bottom of the steering shaft, then 2) Apply a vise grips on the steering box input shaft (not real tight ...just snug). 3) Tie the vise grips snug to the frame or exh manifold with string or what have you ....so the vise grips won't move. Use a 2x4 if needed. 4) Go in the truck and gently wiggle the steering wheel (engine off). If there's ANY slop, it's between the steering wheel and *before* the steering box.

These Saginaw boxes are very durable. I took my tk's steering box off to inspect and/or rebuild it. 275k miles, steering was getting sloppy. For the heck of it I loosened the top screw and checked the input shaft pre-load (in the vise). Dang if it wasn't right on the money! I could detect no wear (I've rebuilt a few steering boxes). I properly re-adjusted it and put it back on the truck. The REAL wear was a badly worn rag joint & a sloppy intermediate shaft. Fixed those and she's steers nice and tight. Immediate improvement!

Had a buddy who had over 300k miles on his suburban who replaced all his trucks joints & bushings, and upper shaft parts. Yeah, it was nice and tight steering ...like a brand new truck after that.

So yeah, these steering boxes are typically very long-lasting.

Jeepwalker said:

Good way to check them is to 1) Remove (or raise up from the steering box) the lower plastic steering shaft cover at the bottom of the steering shaft, then 2) Apply a vise grips on the steering box input shaft (not real tight ...just snug). 3) Tie the vise grips snug to the frame or exh manifold with string or what have you ....so the vise grips won't move. Use a 2x4 if needed. 4) Go in the truck and gently wiggle the steering wheel (engine off). If there's ANY slop, it's between the steering wheel and *before* the steering box.

Click to expand...

I’m also a newly disappointed borgeson gearbox owner of only 2 weeks and 300 miles . For the 500$ tag and hype I expected zero slop maybe 1/4” at the wheel . I know it’s no rack and pinion but, I called them and they said ‘ just loosen the jamb nut and clockwise the bolt 1/4” turn at a time . I did this and literally only got one 1/4” turn before solid resistance on the flat head. As if that’s as far as the adjuster would go on this new box. I Locked the jamb and still 1-1.5” of steering slop at the wheel and intermediate shaft which visually ends up being down at the boxes output shaft that shaft turns 1/2” -1” left and right before the center link or wheels even turn . It’s still enough to have a wandering wheel to cause sailing and over correction with road lanes . Either the hype isn’t what it is or the box is bunk .
It’s one hell of a difference from the 25 year old roached factory box that had enough slop to cause a ship to wreck .

For 500$$ these should have zero lash at the wheel . I have new solid U-joint shafts ttx tire rods ball joints pitman /idler everything is new prior to the box I made sure of that .
And why they tell you to just self adjust is beyond me if they are so worried about voiding warranty’s or customers causing incidental damage and using that as the excuse as to why the boxes are sloppy brand new

I got it from Jegs new off the shelf , 12:7:1 quick ratio so I know they would probably return it for a replacement, Jegs is pretty good about it ..but I sure don’t have the time or money to buy a 2nd spare to get around with and or pull it for a warranty repair if need be .

I too wonder if the bearings at the wheel are bad or any other part of the steering inside the cab ?

I was informed today the Borgeson is manufactured in China. Another one bites the Dust!