junkyard engine swap ?'s

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DerekTheGreat

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what's the difference between the original?
The silvery lines are a tamper indicator. It is possible to adjust the odometer without those lines showing, but that requires a similar level of patience as it would to complete a rubix cube. The average Jim-Bob doesn't have that level of patience, but knows just enough to mess stuff up. Home slice took the cluster out, plucked the odometer, "adjusted" it and then stabbed it all back together.
 

kev2809

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The silvery lines are a tamper indicator. It is possible to adjust the odometer without those lines showing, but that requires a similar level of patience as it would to complete a rubix cube. The average Jim-Bob doesn't have that level of patience, but knows just enough to mess stuff up. Home slice took the cluster out, plucked the odometer, "adjusted" it and then stabbed it all back together.
ohh I gotcha. the cluster in the truck looks like it has the same lines if you a shine a light in it. it's always tough getting an engine this old though..no telling where it actually came from. dropped the pan and took the valve covers off yesterday and it looks pretty clean. well see this how goes. started pulling freeze plugs last night so I should have it cleaned up and register this week. still need to finish pulling the old one out lol
 

kev2809

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hmm my father in law bought this truck brand new and it's completely original except the camper he added...as far I know. here's another completely original cluster. this is from a co worker, bought brand new and he says he's never pulled the cluster out.
 

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DerekTheGreat

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Ehhh, I'm not buyin' it. To confirm, you can take the cluster apart to get to the odometer. Look to see the "black" out of place.
 

Hipster

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who the hell would stab a damn near 30 year old engine in their truck without at least changing the gaskets and minor stuff.
I would because you don't know if you bought one that was cooked or frozen, submerged and hydro-locked with cracked heads, split cylinder, bent rod, etc, or if it's otherwise worth while. Blown HG, shot rings, shot bearings, oil starved etc. They already have crack prone heads and seem to have a fair share of HG issues. People and JY sell bad engines all the time. You do all this stuff and it's no good, then what? People and shops have put in 2-3 JY/used engines before they got one that ran. You don't always hit a home run on the first swing dealing with used. It doesn't need to be finish installed to drop it in enough to run it and check it out. I love when people asking the questions already think they have the answers.
 
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kev2809

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are yall trolling? show me where I asked a question I knew the answer. my original post was what SHOULD be changed since it's already out. on this UNKNOWN engine (which is whatever engine you find unless you rebuild it), I'm trying to get the easiest stuff without opening it up. EVERYTHING except the rubber gaskets (some can be reused) and freeze plugs can be swapped to another engine. oil pump, timing chain, water pump, spark plugs, wires. you have to be an idiot to just drop it in without at least changing some of that...come on now. I appreciate yalls help but damn.


and it was clear as day this engine had a pan gasket leak...still wouldn't even touch that? highly doubt it
 

kev2809

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Ehhh, I'm not buyin' it. To confirm, you can take the cluster apart to get to the odometer. Look to see the "black" out of place.
I'll look more into it when I get a chance, but I take these people's words. they aren't 18 year old kids that swap stuff and throw stuff around, both of these trucks are completely unmolested. but I guess ya never know. either way I'm not too hung up on it
 
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