Big block swap C1500

[KansasOBS]

Haha, instead of getting told you're putting the wrong engine in, you're getting told about your rear diff.

This is my old C10. It has the factory 8.5 housing, which I stuck in the posi out of an 8.5 GM car. Fairly stout oval port headed 454, big stinky cam, Victor intake, 750 Holley DP, Turbo 400 with a 2500 stall, and 3:73's in the rear.

Those aren't small tires in the back, used to light them up for days. Parking lot donut burnouts, etc.

The damn motor mounts are the same. Get yourself a big block radiator, upper brackets, stuff it in and send it. Pet the sweaty stuff later.

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[97c1500ext]

While the rear wasn't something I had planned on discussing, these are the level in-depth responses I struggle to find anywhere else and why i joined this site, so thanks again to all those who are so readily inclined to share such great info.

I had done enough research to believe it would be fine before i even had it rebuilt. Per my other reading, as has also been said here, the biggest thing to have done was a posi, plus new bearings all around to keep things tight.

The damn motor mounts are the same. Get yourself a big block radiator, upper brackets, stuff it in and send it. Pet the sweaty stuff later.

This was the idea. It's why i was asking only about those engine bay items for the most part but since the axel subject was brought up I figured i would verify what i have already seen and it holds true. They aren't the strongest axel but I don't think im gonna break it. Not right away anyway

 

[Drunkcanuk]

While the rear wasn't something I had planned on discussing, these are the level in-depth responses I struggle to find anywhere else and why i joined this site, so thanks again to all those who are so readily inclined to share such great info.

I had done enough research to believe it would be fine before i even had it rebuilt. Per my other reading, as has also been said here, the biggest thing to have done was a posi, plus new bearings all around to keep things tight.


This was the idea. It's why i was asking only about those engine bay items for the most part but since the axel subject was brought up I figured i would verify what i have already seen and it holds true. They aren't the strongest axel but I don't think im gonna break it. Not right away anyway

I'm almost in the same boat as you.
Swapping a 6.0 in this winter. Don't wanna swap to a 14 bolt for multiple reasons. Going to put a locker of some sort in, potentially axles and send it.
Don't plan on drag racing on a prepped track where it hooks so hard stuff breaks. Maybe the odd burnout or green light "GO" but other than that, I'm reasonable confident if I don't abuse it, it should last. And if it does grenade, deal with it then.

 

[Schurkey]

I put a "Like" on the post with that video...but...I don't think he's 100% correct.

He's correct enough that the video is useful.

Along about 8:15 or so--my computer is slow and the video time doesn't update like it should--he claims that the crush sleeve "maintains the drag". The crush sleeve has nothing AT ALL to do with the preload/drag on the BEARINGS. It is EXACTLY THE OPPOSITE, the bearings load the crush sleeve as the nut is torqued. The crush sleeve is pushing the inner and outer bearings APART, (or at least, resisting them being pushed together) which--without the nut in place--would remove preload from the bearings. The NUT provides the "drag" on the bearings, not the crush-sleeve. The crush sleeve maintains preload/drag against the NUT, which increases nut/pinion thread friction, and helps prevent the nut from backing-off. I still believe that if you could guarantee that the nut could be locked in place for the life of the axle, you wouldn't need the crush sleeve at all.

I'm still not clear on how the crush sleeve can be over-crushed in service unless the bearings fail first. I gotta cogitate on that some more.