5.7l vortec oil cooler

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burbanswervin

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to do what I *think* youtre trying to do, you need to swap the oil filter adapter on the block.
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yea but this one you have pictured here is to delete the oil cooler entirely, it dosent have ports to route any oil to a cooler
 

GoToGuy

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Small blocks original OE filter setup was a can with a large bolt through the center holding it in place. When the spin on filters started being manufactured and engines were equipped that way.
The " melling " filter adapter shown is what the factory equipment new eng with. For older cannisters filters you went the parts counter and purchased this new spin on filter adapter in a blue and white " AC Filter " box with spin adapter, gasket seal, hardware. I converted a few.
" Transdapt " used to be a big company with a huge selection of adapters for external coolers, remote filters, dual remote filters, and so on.
Your using -6 line ? The oil cooler uses -8 , the oil cooler wants to move volume not pressure, that's why it's 1/2 line.
The context, or the idea, of your question makes all the difference. " I maintain a fleet of K2500 for construction" versus " I'm building an over the top show truck with AN hose and such".
It can make for a response that better fits your conditions.
Good luck!
 

burbanswervin

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Small blocks original OE filter setup was a can with a large bolt through the center holding it in place. When the spin on filters started being manufactured and engines were equipped that way.
The " melling " filter adapter shown is what the factory equipment new eng with. For older cannisters filters you went the parts counter and purchased this new spin on filter adapter in a blue and white " AC Filter " box with spin adapter, gasket seal, hardware. I converted a few.
" Transdapt " used to be a big company with a huge selection of adapters for external coolers, remote filters, dual remote filters, and so on.
Your using -6 line ? The oil cooler uses -8 , the oil cooler wants to move volume not pressure, that's why it's 1/2 line.
The context, or the idea, of your question makes all the difference. " I maintain a fleet of K2500 for construction" versus " I'm building an over the top show truck with AN hose and such".
It can make for a response that better fits your conditions.
Good luck!
Yea i did notice that and will be switching to the -8 fittings thanks
 

burbanswervin

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i think im just gonna scrap the adapter that came with the kit, reinstall the factory cooler housing (with the 6an as shown in pics) and instead of running the lines to from the cooler housing to the engine coolant radiator, run them from the housing directly to the external cooling rad and block off the ports on the main engine coolant radiator. that should work in the same way

i think im just gonna scrap the adapter that came with the kit, reinstall the factory cooler housing (with the 6an as shown in pics) and instead of running the lines to from the cooler housing to the engine coolant radiator, run them from the housing directly to the external cooling rad and block off the ports on the main engine coolant radiator. that should work in the same way
Would this work?
 

burbanswervin

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You're bypassing the factory oil cooler in the radiator, right? If so then you're not bringing the oil temp up to temperature as fast.
Hmm, but at a dead cold start it should take the same amount of time to heat up being that the coolant and everything is cold
 

burbanswervin

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Hmm, but at a dead cold start it should take the same amount of time to heat up being that the coolant and everything is cold
And if its deleted its the same deal, might take a few more seconds or minutes to warm up in cold winter mornings, not that big a deal for me
 

Schurkey

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Coolant heats faster than oil. The radiator-mounted oil "cooler" is a heat exchanger that works both directions, stabilizing the oil temp to the middle-range where the oil works best.

Bypassing the radiator-mounted "cooler" is not the best idea, especially since it seems you already own it.
 
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