Decided to build a garage. Now the fun begins.

[South VA]

That’s really weird. Almost like a low spot. Are those little hairs stuck in?

Yes. The hairs are the fiberglas reinforcement added to the concrete at the plant. They’re supposed to wear off as the floor is used. I saw the same thing in another shop floor.

 

[62barsoom]

Yesterday we found a rough spot that I’m not sure what to do about. It’s about a foot across. I’ll ask the contractor if he can patch it. If not, maybe he can grind it smooth, leaving a small birdbath.

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Looks like a wte spot left from trowling it. The fiber in the mix should help with crack prevention.

 

[South VA]

Looks like a wte spot left from trowling it. The fiber in the mix should help with crack prevention.

There are some marks around it from the powered trowel, so it might have dug in there. I don’t know. It’s odd that I didn’t notice it the day it was finished. It took a couple of days to make itself known.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

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Solution for your potty issue????

 

[termite]

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Solution for your potty issue????

All that is missing is the bag of cedar saw dust or lime.

 

[South VA]

Well, the rough spot in the slab will get sorted at some point. I’m disappointed, but not too worried about it. Worst case, I’ll grind it down myself once the slab is fully cured.

The next step, now that I’ve taken y’alls advice to go with a full apron, is to determine how far out to extend it so that the HHR SS, my lowest ground clearance vehicle, can enter the garage without scraping at the transition (the breakover) from the ramp to the garage floor.

The HHR has 6.3 inches of ground clearance and a 103.5” wheelbase. Allowing for a driver, let’s say the ground clearance is 6”.

According to a handy online calculator (vcalc.com), the breakover angle I seek is 13.2 degrees, the maximum at which the HHR won’t scrape.

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Wb = wheelbase; gc = ground clearance; Bº = breakover angle. (vcalc.com)

If I’m understanding this correctly, one has to divide the breakover angle (Bº) by 2, yielding a ramp (or apron) slope of 6.6º.
Edit: Looking at this again, apparently I don’t need to divide the angle in two, which helps considerably. The ramp lengths are adjusted below.

To complicate matters, the ground slopes down along the long axis of the garage, from left to right as you face the bay doors. The left hand bay door is about 7 inches above grade, and the right hand bay door is about 13 inches above grade.

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Using another handy online calculator (savvycalculator.com), the ramp at the right hand bay door would be 9.4 4.73 feet long. The left hand bay door would have a ramp length of 5.1 2.55 feet.

Maybe I’m missing something here, but because of the difference in ramp lengths, I would guess the apron will wind up looking like a trapezoid in plan view.

Anyway, I have at least a couple of weeks to figure it out.

 

[Erik the Awful]

When my shop was first done my Mustang couldn't make it over the transition from the yard to the pad. I had a bunch of brush to mulch, so I just dumped the mulch to make a ramp. It worked great and the mulch became part of the soil.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I had aprons poured, with a slight slope for drainage and access, then built up the surrounding ground with 1-2-3 (Road Base) to smooth it out.

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[South VA]

When my shop was first done my Mustang couldn't make it over the transition from the yard to the pad. I had a bunch of brush to mulch, so I just dumped the mulch to make a ramp. It worked great and the mulch became part of the soil.

Necessity is the mother of invention.

 

[South VA]

I had aprons poured, with a slight slope for drainage and access, then built up the surrounding ground with 1-2-3 (Road Base) to smooth it out.

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Not a bad idea.

It’s possible that I may have been overthinking this…