junkyard engine swap ?'s

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L31MaxExpress

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Goes to show I've been out of the car biz for awhile. I think the last engine swap I did was in an '86 1/2 ton Chevy back in 2000. I R&Red the engine in my ElCamino about 4yrs ago but that don't count.
These were untouched engines when I tore into them and had brass throughout. The OE brass plugs do not have numbers stamped into them like many aftermarket and are a little thinner. The OE brass ones will last decades. I would only change them if the cooling system was horribly neglected and the cooling jackets need a lot of attention. Some of the newer aftermarket plugs are not even consistent in size thanks to China QC.

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This was also a 2 bolt main 880 Vortec block with the mechanical fuel pump hole and factory block off plate, normal water bypass provision and all the timing cover bolt holes drilled and tapped like many claim they never see. I have seen more like this than the other way around.
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Scooterwrench

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These were untouched engines when I tore into them and had brass throughout. The OE brass plugs do not have numbers stamped into them like many aftermarket and are a little thinner. The OE brass ones will last decades. I would only change them if the cooling system was horribly neglected and the cooling jackets need a lot of attention. Some of the newer aftermarket plugs are not even consistent in size thanks to China QC.

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Is that HiVo timing chain stock? I thought they went to a single roller chain.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Is that HiVo timing chain stock? I thought they went to a single roller chain.
Some were link style and some were roller. That was a replacement chain for the flat tappet cam I put into that one. I put an old 100052 Crane cam and hardened foot lifter set in that one. I paid like $79 for the cam and lifter set from a local mom and pop auto parts store that was going out of business. They had it as a wall display and it had a 1/2" of dust on the sun faded box. More power and did not have to change the heads up short of putting some cheap old style Z/28 springs in it.

I literally went through that one and made about 350 hp and 400 tq for $500. It was so simple of a build. Stock re-ringed short block, new bearings including cam bearings, diy polished the crank, honed the bores, mild flat tappet cam, 0.016" steel shim head gaskets, and a M99HVS oil pump back when they were cheap.
 
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L31MaxExpress

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I just looked you can still get the springs I used back in the day for $2.65 a spring. I have used them in a lot of flat tappet builds under 0.500". The guide boss cutter tool was $150 back then, probably nearly double that now but it works well and is a cheaper upgrade than the Beehives and retainer swap. If I had a Vortec apart I would put these even on a stock cam because the stock spring are so weak especially on a 100K or more well used engine but that being said I have the guide boss cutter.

 

Scooterwrench

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I just looked you can still get the springs I used back in the day for $2.65 a spring. I have used them in a lot of flat tappet builds under 0.500". The guide boss cutter tool was $150 back then, probably nearly double that now but it works well and is a cheaper upgrade than the Beehives and retainer swap. If I had a Vortec apart I would put these even on a stock cam because the stock spring are so weak especially on a 100K or more well used engine but that being said I have the guide boss cutter.

Guess I got lucky. The 441 heads on my 355 came off a '79 Z28. If I go to the 1.6 rockers I'll be pushing their limit.
Did you use the exhaust valve rotators?
 

kev2809

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Oil pump is not a bad idea and maybe pull the front main cap and #1 and #2 rod caps and inspect the bearings and crank. Timing chains on these motors are pretty hardy. With the pan off you can rock the crank back and forth and look up in there and see how much slack is in the chain. Replace the timing cover and rear main seal while you're at it.
i was planning on doing the timing cover anyways, but ****, for another 60 bucks i can do the chain too. im getting everything through rockauto so im trying to swoop everything at once...their deals are so much better than local parts stores when you put enough stuff together. and i did forget the rear main seal! ill add that one too.

i havent found much luck on a decent price engine, a grand looks to be the price nowadays, cant believe it. engine is just about ready to pull, just deciding if i should pull the trans with it so i dont have to fight the bellhousing bolts
 

kev2809

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finally found a somewhat deal on one. $1k for motor and trans with somewhat low miles...even bought the cluster too to swap in truck.
 

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Selrahc360

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I got a 96 2500 ext cab long bed inherited with a blown engine. I will be stabbing a junkyard motor in it, and obviously plan on swapping any gasket I can since it's out. additionally the water pump and MAYBE starter, along with tuneup. is there anything I'm missing that should probably be replaced now instead later?

I did an LS swap in my 67 suburban and I did all the gaskets I could reach but didn't really touch any sensors and had good luck. not sure what's prone to fail on these obs trucks though. any tips is greatly appreciated!
Honestly, You get to many pig's out of the wreaking yard. If you find low mileage it has been a submarine. You can get a two year warranty on engine's out of S&J in Spokane for a very fair price. I know it is a hobby, but I have a lot of hobbies time is the scarcest then cash.
 

kev2809

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i found one from a private seller. hes obs guy which made me feel a little better lol. problem with the junkyards around here is the warranty is voided once you open them up. who the hell would stab a damn near 30 year old engine in their truck without at least changing the gaskets and minor stuff.
 

DerekTheGreat

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finally found a somewhat deal on one. $1k for motor and trans with somewhat low miles...even bought the cluster too to swap in truck.

Hate to break it to ya, but you see those silvery lines between the digits on that cluster? Somebody rolled that m'er f'er back. Original miles those are not.
 
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