Oil cooler delete question

I want to delete my oil cooler lines, what do I need to block off the radiator ?

Nothing really. I just left the ports open. When I eventually replaced the radiator I left the dust plugs in place that were part of the packaging.

I was thinking that but wasn’t sure if it was a good idea or not. Thanks for the reply, if it’s not needed I won’t worry about it.

Put new lines on it. The oil cooler is very effective and is there for a reason.

L31MaxExpress said:

Put new lines on it. The oil cooler is very effective and is there for a reason.

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I remove lots of parts that engineers put on for good reasons lol. Believe it or not I’m actually an automotive engineer myself.

92yukon said:

I remove lots of parts that engineers put on for good reasons lol. Believe it or not I’m actually an automotive engineer myself.

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Well it is an upgrade I purposely made on my 1983, 1987 and 1997 vans. The engines have very high oil temps without it in summer heat. The oil pressure would fall like a rock at hot idle without it. The cooler also warms the oil up more quickly which helps boil moisture out of it in cooler weather and shorter trips.

Not that it’s scientific but a friend of mine rebuilt a high mileage TBI 350 that had an oil cooler from factory. He claimed the bearings were like brand new at 400,000 km. What’s that about 250,000 miles? He claimed it was the oil cooler that kept the bearings so good. Who knows really but I think it’s a good idea especially if towing or driven by someone like me with a lead foot lol!

Here’s a photo of the engine I just removed and it’s got a cooler on it.

Sean Buick 76 said:

Not that it’s scientific but a friend of mine rebuilt a high mileage TBI 350 that had an oil cooler from factory. He claimed the bearings were like brand new at 400,000 km. What’s that about 250,000 miles? He claimed it was the oil cooler that kept the bearings so good. Who knows really but I think it’s a good idea especially if towing or driven by someone like me with a lead foot lol!

Here’s a photo of the engine I just removed and it’s got a cooler on it.

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I gained about 15 psi hot idle oil pressure putting the oil cooler back on the 97s 383. From 20-25 psi to 35-40 psi. The 87s 350 holds 50 psi at hot idle. Both run 60-70 psi at 1,500+ rpm completely heat soaked and running hard in Texas heat.

That being said I pulled a L30 305 apart that had over 300K miles on it. It also had the oil cooler for the first 250K miles in the 96 Express 2500 it was in and then my buddy abused it for 50K miles in his 98 K1500 mud truck on 37s. He would hang that little 305 on the rev limiter in 4wd low for minutes at a time in thick mud. It had factory GM bearings so nice in it they could have been re-used. The same could not be said for the cam and lifters, they were damaged likely from severe valve float. The camshaft had signs of the rollers impacting the closing lobes and the roller wheels were beat up and a few were even failing.

Sean Buick 76 said:

Not that it’s scientific but a friend of mine rebuilt a high mileage TBI 350 that had an oil cooler from factory. He claimed the bearings were like brand new at 400,000 km. What’s that about 250,000 miles? He claimed it was the oil cooler that kept the bearings so good. Who knows really but I think it’s a good idea especially if towing or driven by someone like me with a lead foot lol!

Here’s a photo of the engine I just removed and it’s got a cooler on it.

Click to expand...

One thing I have always done on that style of filter. It cannot be filled with oil like a 2wd setup can be. I always pulled the PCM fuse and spin the engine over until it builds pressure after an oil change. Pop the fuse back in and no noisy startups while the engine starves of oil for several seconds. I pull the PCM fuse to the actual PCM vs the coil wire so that it is not washing down the bores with fuel while cranking. How much difference it makes to engine life I cannot say but in my mind it is easier on the rod bearings especially since they receive oil last. I also always use a Mobil One filter that has an excellent drain back valve design. Cheaper filters will make the engine clack until oil gets back into the system everytime you cold start it. GM actually had a TSB on it years ago.

L31MaxExpress said:

One thing I have always done on that style of filter. It cannot be filled with oil like a 2wd setup can be. I always pulled the PCM fuse and spin the engine over until it builds pressure after an oil change. Pop the fuse back in and no noisy startups while the engine starves of oil for several seconds. I pull the PCM fuse to the actual PCM vs the coil wire so that it is not washing down the bores with fuel while cranking. How much difference it makes to engine life I cannot say but in my mind it is easier on the rod bearings especially since they receive oil last. I also always use a Mobil One filter that has an excellent drain back valve design. Cheaper filters will make the engine clack until oil gets back into the system everytime you cold start it. GM actually had a TSB on it years ago.

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Good idea!! Hey you’re a smart guy you may know. Can I tap into my engine oil cooler lines to feed and return oil from my turbocharger? It only takes a tiny amount of oil to feed the turbo. Probably not the drain, I would want that to be a separate line directly to the pan for return from the turbo. But in theory I can run the oil feed to the turbo from anywhere.