Whistling/squealing sound starting at 20mph

[Road Trip]

Yes, the pads were the only brake related part that the shop replaced. Could this at all possibly be related to me bleeding the brakes, and getting a new abs light? Because this squealing began right after the bleed, and about 5 days after the new pads.

But I will take it back to that shop and see if they can set it right. So, just to clarify, my possible situation there is rust built up on the surface that the pad mounts to, and now that it has new pads, the rust has built up enough thickness make the pad not seat all the way down, and it now rubs on the rotor?

Rust impeding the precise movement of the brake pads in any area is a cause of concern and something
to be on the lookout for. But in my previous reply I was specifically focused on the internal parts of the
caliper being bound up by relatively small amounts of corrosion closing up the clearances on the 'puck'.

By the way, the proper term for the part that I was referring to is the brake caliper hydraulic piston. Here's
an illustration of the front brake caliper overhaul procedure for our trucks from the '99 FSM:

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If you want a more descriptive real-world photo, here's a brake caliper thread started by Schurkey. The first photo is exactly what I'm talking about: (brake caliper rebuild)

And for more solid info on our brake calipers, after looking around the internet the best discussion was again found in this forum: ('94 front brake caliper rebuild)

****

As for the sound showing up after you bled your brakes, I don't think that this was the root cause. It
may have been coincidence, having to do with the pads breaking in/conforming to the existing rotors, and
thereby changing the interface between these 2 surfaces, and possibly moving the pads into a audible
resonant frequency? (Disclaimer: The previous is conjecture on my part, please take with a grain of salt. :0)

In English, I don't think you did anything wrong with your brake bleed procedure. And a quick check
as to my troubleshooting theory being the right one would be to jack the truck so that the tire/wheel/rotor
assembly in question can be turned by hand. IF all this turns quietly with little drag then the problem is elsewhere.
On the other hand, if this assembly is draggy and noisy (as if the brakes are being lightly applied) then this
needs to be corrected.

Another test for sticky/draggy brakes is to drive for a few minutes, get out and check the relative temps of
all 4 wheels against each other. Oftentimes you will find 3 brakes slightly warm, while the 4th brake assembly
is radiating a lot more heat than the others. (And depending whether your wheels are open or closed,
there may be a lot more brake dust on the suspect/draggy wheel.)

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I'm not saying that this is the only possible source of the noise, but it *is* one source that I've troubleshot
to several times in the past.

Hope this clarifies what I was describing in my previous post.

 

[slow_c1500]

I had the shop look at it, they said the brake pads aren’t contacting the rotor and it was definitely the driver side wheel bearing. The wheel would click while you turn it.

At least that is cleared up, but I still have an Abs light after bleeding the brakes…. grrrr

 

[99xcss4]

maybe one or both of the wheel speed sensors is bad

 

[slow_c1500]

Would a bad bearing make those sensors go bad?

I hope this isn’t the case but it is possible that I got air in during the bleeding process. It was my first time.

 

[99xcss4]

also if your driver side wheel bearing is bad I would also change the passenger side at the same time if you can swing it

 

[99xcss4]

I do not know if a bad bearing can cause wheel speed sensor failure or not even if you did not get all the air out when you bled your brakes that will not help you with the abs from my understanding the abs needs to be bled with a fancy scan tool and dose not need to be done unless the abs module is being swaped/replaced I think

 

[rzr6-4]

I do not know if a bad bearing can cause wheel speed sensor failure or not even if you did not get all the air out when you bled your brakes that will not help you with the abs from my understanding the abs needs to be bled with a fancy scan tool and dose not need to be done unless the abs module is being swaped/replaced I think

These trucks may be different but on Rams like mine, the speed sensor is in the wheel bearing such that if you toast your bearing (were neglectful and didn't change it in time) it can start to throw abs, esc, etc codes due to not being able to read correctly anymore.

 

[slow_c1500]

I mean it’s got fresh brake fluid in it, and the pedal feels less spongy than before, so I’m not super worried about the abs light. However even if I did want to fix it I don’t have a scan tool that can read the code, does anyone have any recommendations for affordable scanners that can communicate with 96-98 Kelsey Hayes abs modules?

 

[99xcss4]

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[slow_c1500]

So i found this when I removed the drivers side front wheel center cap: the middle of the dust cap snapped off. I checked the other side and it was still intact but it was bulging in the middle. Would the worn bearing(s) have caused this?

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