Rocker arms loosening 93 5.7 tbi

[A97obs]

Yes. They will bolt on.

Quick question while I’m at the yard, I actually needed a door. I just found a rust free perfect door off a 95 newer panel style. Will the inner workings on my 93 door fit over to a 95-98 shell I assume I can swap my 88-94 inner parts glass inner panel power parts right into the 95 door shell ?

 

[A97obs]

If I don’t grab it now there’s 50 guys on it . It’ looks brand new has to be a Texas door

Just wanted to confirm 95-98 doors aren’t provisioned to only work with 95-98 power internals

 

[scott2093]

just saw this looking quick.... I actually thought only the door panels were different through some crossover years but I guess I was wrong

Do yourself a HUGE favor and find a good used OEM door shell. Be aware even though doors are advertised as 88-98, there are two different door shells. A 88-94 and a 95-98 shell.

The big difference is one has the recess the inner door card sits in for the 95+ interior, the other doesn't. Both can work vice versa, with some cutting.

 

[df2x4]

I would probably pass on the door. I don't remember the specifics, but IIRC there are some small differences between '88-'94 and '95+. While they will technically interchange it's generally advised to stay as close to your year as possible for doors. Both for the shell differences, and the fact that the tooling and dies used in manufacturing them wore in as time passed and caused slight variations in fitment.

 

[A97obs]

just saw this looking quick.... I actually thought only the door panels were different through some crossover years but I guess I was wrong

Well hopefully the vice versa is in favor of putting 93 guts in 95 shell
With the 88-94 being a flat inner door panel
One would think the inner steel that houses all the window and regulator and all that would bolt into the provisions on the 95 shell I just got

I had to get it for 30$ even at that I can sell it if it absolutely won’t work . But it’s so mint it’s unreal and white same as my 93

 

[A97obs]

I would probably pass on the door. I don't remember the specifics, but IIRC there are some small differences between '88-'94 and '95+. While they will technically interchange it's generally advised to stay as close to your year as possible for doors. Both for the shell differences, and the fact that the tooling and dies used in manufacturing them wore in as time passed and caused slight variations in fitment.

well I’ll takey gamble and see what I need to swap 93 guts into 95 shell , I think thata the better of the two swap scenarios.
I remember swapping a few different 82-93 inner guts to clean door shells on a few gen 1 s10 trucks I had.

I mean I’ll see what happens, it’ll probably work but like you said may see slight changes

 

[Cadillacmak]

If you're up to it, doing hole cutouts to give just enough comfortable access to the nuts is best imo...Cutting the entire middle section out works too but , in my case, I cut too much away and, with a few overly excited sprayers, they were successfully catapulting the side walls enough to make me go back and put the middle back in with cutouts......
or cutting as little out of the area needed to access as possible would be great too I suppose...

That's a great idea!

 

[Schurkey]

Seems like once the chatter is gone, it would be easier to kill the engine right then in there and then do the preload with no mechanical movement?

Yup.

Preload has to do with keeping the lash in place for lifter bleed down essentially a dry startup?

Nope. Preload is to assure that the valvetrain still has no lash even after heaps 'n' piles of miles (and therefore wear.)

Setting preload could be a "life of the engine" sort of deal. Something else on the engine should fail before the wear removes all the preload and the valvetrain clatters.

Do you want to set the preload on all eight rockers in line at once or do you want to do the preload on each cylinder with the one cylinder time or one valve at a time .

When it's me, I get all sixteen tightened to "zero lash" and then tighten all sixteen to whatever preload I intend.

Eight at a time would be fine, too.

I was told today by a Chevy guy I know run 10/40 conventional and dump That Mobil 1 syn that I just put in.

No.

You use a 1” hole saw bit ?

Measure your socket that fits the adjuster nut. The closer your hole saw is to the exact size required plus a touch of clearance, the less oil will escape.

As the hole gets closer to the socket size, the position of the hole must become more exact. The goal is to use the smallest size, positioned perfectly...and since few of us are that good, a bigger hole becomes less-critical for placement.

Will 96-98 vortec covers cross over to a tbi head ? And bolt down If that’s all I can find for a dummy splash gaurd

Yup. I've heard that the PCV baffle size is smaller/narrower on the Vortec covers, so the reverse (TBI covers on a Vortec) might not be true.

 

[A97obs]

Yes. They will bolt on.

Someone keeps deleting my new topic smh .. about what I’m about the ask

So I’m experiencing an issue I checked all my cylinders for compression after all this lash and preload adjustment I had been feeling a miss and did wires plugs cap rotor still miss checked the compression after all that and 140-148 on 1-7 but # 8 is Zero compression.
I read on a nova forum a guy said on another person having same issue to back off the rocker nut .. that can actually cause that symptom?

 

[A97obs]

I keep reading topics about rocker arm preload being to tight and valves open could cause no compression meaning Zero .. which is a weird result imho .. but low compression is pure mechanical failure. So might I be dealing with a bad adjustment on # 8 cyl it never had this stumble when I bought the truck even though I had weird lifter issues going on .
This is depressing as hell .. I wanna try to adjust the # 8 and see if that is why .