Have you tried them?Why not the Delphi, which I believe was the OE part?
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Have you tried them?Why not the Delphi, which I believe was the OE part?
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Other than the original I’m still using, no. But on my 96, I do believe the original is a Delphi. At least the new Delphi is made in USA. I have a NOS Delphi on deck if and when needed.Have you tried them?
Other than the original I’m still using, no. But on my 96, I do believe the original is a Delphi. At least the new Delphi is made in USA. I have a NOS Delphi on deck if and when needed.
The new Delphi’s are still made in USA, whether or not they are as good as the original’s I can’t say.I have a Delphi in my parts stash, as well. No idea when it was made, or where. It was a Rockauto closeout, I think, so it could be older stock. I had originally gotten a new ICM from Orielly's, but had to do a warranty exchange after about a year, TWICE.
Note, this is the later Vortec ICM, not the TBI ICM, if it makes a difference to anybody.
Unfortunately the US has had to cut cost and quality to compete with the cheap imports but if you buy domestic you keep American workers in jobs.The new Delphi’s are still made in USA, whether or not they are as good as the original’s I can’t say.
…and why I buy NOS.Unfortunately the US has had to cut cost and quality to compete with the cheap imports but if you buy domestic you keep American workers in jobs.
Unfortunately the US has had to cut cost and quality to compete with the cheap imports but if you buy domestic you keep American workers in jobs.
It's why I buy Genuine GM original-equipment stuff from the Treasure Yard. Starters, alternators, coils, ignition modules, entire distributors or coil packs, various switches and control panels, etc. I get stuff for 1/10 the price of "new", and "good used" OEM parts when carefully selected tend to be better than "new, aftermarket" stuff at the parts stores. I save things from going into a landfill, I keep the Treasure Yard in business, my out-of-pocket costs are minimal, and with each part I recover from the Treasure Yard, I'm totally failing to provide the Communists with my dollars.…and why I buy NOS.
You're probably better-off with the original module than a brand-new one. Don't change it until it actually fails. But do test your ignition coil--primary resistance, secondary resistance, primary/secondary to ground, and verify output power with a spark-tester calibrated for HEI. Most ignition module failures are caused by faulty ignition coils.My truck was abandoned for 15 years and I've been wanting to change the ICM for piece of mind