Deciphering Live Data.
- Thread starter Nick88
- Start date
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Painted red to keep it clean and be able to see any leaks easier it was all the old black paint and dirty vefore
Its in thread already 1988 K5 Blazer
Cruise control and a/c are proper.
All the engine wiring is good the wires along firewall are from a cheapo harbor freight light kit, I was actually planning on cleaning it all up and putting it in a loom and what not.
So it's "painted" not "rebuilt" or with other major work?
I guess I missed that. Figured it'd be in the first post.
"Clean-up" would be good.
Does say wiring is a big part of intermittent behavior. Runs good then doesn't fits.
If you haven't already, you should download your 88 emissions/ driveabilty manual from the sticky section. It's really great for finding paths to work through.
88-98 Service Manuals
Over the years I have collected a bunch of GM service literature. Links to PDF Scans of service and STG manuals and a links to the Parts manuals. You'll need the FREE Adobe Acrobat reader to open these files. Get it directly from Adobe here {http://get.adobe.com/reader/} If you're not...
www.gmt400.com
attaching a screenshot of the mention of intermittents from the manual
btw...what is that egr selenoid hose off throttle body? looks like a siamese twin? Is that an 88 thing?
Attachments
Nope just paint all rhe other work has all been other stuff like waterpump and sensors.
Its somewhere in here not sure its a few pages in, my bad.
Yeah I was actually planning on it today but got sidetracked.
Had lots of wiring issues connector wise that i sorted out by replacing connectors, all the dangly wires above the motor on firewall are for aux stuff.Does say wiring is a big part of intermittent behavior. Runs good then doesn't fits.
If you haven't already, you should download your 88 emissions/ driveabilty manual from the sticky section. It's really great for finding paths to work through.
88-98 Service Manuals
Over the years I have collected a bunch of GM service literature. Links to PDF Scans of service and STG manuals and a links to the Parts manuals. You'll need the FREE Adobe Acrobat reader to open these files. Get it directly from Adobe here {http://get.adobe.com/reader/} If you're not...
attaching a screenshot of the mention of intermittents from the manual
btw...what is that egr selenoid hose off throttle body? looks like a siamese twin? Is that an 88 thing?
Ill download that.
Yeah the egr solenoid vac line feeds both that and the smog pump air diverter valve. I deleted the smog pump so i need to get a single vac line since the double makes me uneasy, waayyy too many joints for my liking.
The FSM is an excellent source, just know that the ones available here might not be exactly relevant to your k5 blazer.
1) If you have miles of wire piled up, trim the wire up to the length needed.
2) Crimp connectors are garbage. Heat-shrink crimp connectors are good. I'm not sure what kind of connectors are buried under that electrical tape, but your wiring should be able to stand up to the environment without electrical tape. Do a tug test on every connection before you heat shrink it.
3) Multiple splices in a single run of wire is bad. I can understand having two splices if you need to connect two pigtails, but more than two splices means you're being a cheapskate. I say this because I'm looking at the bundle of engine wires that run to the mess of white wire, that then splices to red wire that doesn't look factory. It makes me think that wire goes on to another splice. I'd remove the white and red wires and run a single length of the correct color wire. As an Air Force technician, we were only allowed one splice in a run of wire on any equipment that was nuke certified. If it needed a second repair, it was time to replace the entire run of wire - a lot easier to do on a harness that was designed to be maintained.
4) Match wire colors as well as you can.
Heat shrink butt connectors. Line them up so the split is perpendicular to the crimper, crimp them, tug test them, and then heat shrink them with a lighter. Factory approved.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L29DLGN/
Striped wire in hobbyist lengths.
1) I always like to leave a little extra to have some play, Ive worked on other trucks that guys will tighten the cts for example and pull the wires super tight, screwing up the pigtail and causing problems.
2) I only use heatshrink connectors, the only time I havent are for the injector pigtails because I used nylon gas resistant ones. I always give a good tug to make sure its nice and tight, the electric tape is mostly so it looks better than a million butt connectors everywhere.
3) I try to keep it to only 1. Some wires are 3 because its the whole run going to a pigtail on either end, like my coil to icm wires. The white spliced to the red is for the knock sensor. The old wire was shot and the wire was running through the headshield on the manifold that is touching the manifold so it got wayyyy toasty. I put in the red wire because its what I had, although I always try to match colors.
