Deciphering Live Data.

[Nick88]

New update. I swapped in the dyna mod icm and since they apparently like a hotter flavor coil, I tossed in my old accel. Felt the sam, didnt seem to misfire though knock on wood. So then I finally acted since I had a suspicion. I feel like i remember before replacing the distributor when the truck still ran pretty good the timing was not at 0 but much more advanced, so I said hell and set it to 5 degrees advance. Wow. truck had some serious get up to it. The knock counts are higher but I dont know how accurate that is on the tuner. Either way holy moly it woke up much more. Im gonna play with it some more see what happens, might add a hair of spark plug gap since DUI recommends it with the dynamid icm.

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[scott2093]

The knock counts are higher but I dont know how accurate that is on the tuner

Need to take knocks seriously.Very destructive.

I would try to get a scanner to verify. My experience with ALDL Droid is it would randomly add knock counts like at the beginning or end of a session. But it would randomly dump some in the middle of a session too. I wonder if idling in park and hitting throttle quickly would show knock activity. You have a slow baud rate but it should be responsive enough to know if it's picking up knocks when you're on the throttle....

could always rig up a multimeter somewhere in the knock circuit to see if there's any activity while hitting throttle as another option...

Maybe need some higher octane gas too

That dang tps % lol...
My 1320 Electronics adapter went down finally so I'm waiting to get a chance to look at aldl droid again. Want to check out what that tps% reads on my truck....

 

[Schurkey]

Yes White wires. Its a brand new Delphi unit. Ironically the warrantied new unit had over 5 ohms of resistance I think the part number is #GN10048, could be wrong thats off the top of my head.

Ill check in a bit what test leads touched show.

Thanks for the visual. Now I'm more confused than ever. That is one goofy testing protocol.

Test 1 = Secondary to ground. Valid. Since in this coil, the secondary is connected to the primary, it's also a test of the primary to ground. And that's valid too. Ideally, there'd be infinite resistance since the primary and secondary winding should be insulated from ground.

Test 3 = Secondary winding resistance. Again, valid. Thousands of ohms due to the large numbers of very fine wire.

Test 2 = Testing from "A" to..."A"? They should be connected internally, thus essentially zero resistance. There's switched-battery power into the coil in one "A", and that same power goes to the module for it's power via the other "A" terminal. This is a sorta-valid test, if the two "A"s aren't connected, the module doesn't get power and the vehicle has no spark. It's also something I've never considered before, never tested before, 'cause I've never seen or heard of a failure here.

The IMPORTANT Test Not Shown = Primary winding resistance. This would be from "A" to "B". Should be very low resistance since there's few turns of relatively large wire. Typically about 0.5 to 0.7 ohms on HEI coils, double or triple on older, ballast-resistor-style ignitions.

The other test not shown = "B" to "B". Just like the "A" to "A" test, it's not something I'd have considered before now. One of the "B" terminals leads to the module, it's how the module grounds the primary windings. The other "B" terminal would connect to the tach, if there is one. If the two "B" terminals aren't connected, the tach doesn't work, or the engine has no spark, so it doesn't run...and the tach doesn't work.

Point is, testing "A" to "B" is enormously more important than "A" to "A", or "B" to "B".

Please link to the web-page that has that diagram. I wanna research this some more.

 

[Nick88]

Need to take knocks seriously.Very destructive.

I would try to get a scanner to verify. My experience with ALDL Droid is it would randomly add knock counts like at the beginning or end of a session. But it would randomly dump some in the middle of a session too. I wonder if idling in park and hitting throttle quickly would show knock activity. You have a slow baud rate but it should be responsive enough to know if it's picking up knocks when you're on the throttle....

could always rig up a multimeter somewhere in the knock circuit to see if there's any activity while hitting throttle as another option...

Maybe need some higher octane gas too

That dang tps % lol...
My 1320 Electronics adapter went down finally so I'm waiting to get a chance to look at aldl droid again. Want to check out what that tps% reads on my truck....

I need to toy with timing. Today it was more sluggish but very little knock. I suspect knock sensor did its job and retarded... Probably drop to 4 or try mid grade gas, I need to do the price to see if it is worth it.

Still slight mis on start, maybe from spark plugs. I pulled out the current ones sndnthey looked a little cruddy so might look at prices.

 

[Nick88]

Thanks for the visual. Now I'm more confused than ever. That is one goofy testing protocol.

Test 1 = Secondary to ground. Valid. Since in this coil, the secondary is connected to the primary, it's also a test of the primary to ground. And that's valid too. Ideally, there'd be infinite resistance since the primary and secondary winding should be insulated from ground.

Test 3 = Secondary winding resistance. Again, valid. Thousands of ohms due to the large numbers of very fine wire.

Test 2 = Testing from "A" to..."A"? They should be connected internally, thus essentially zero resistance. There's switched-battery power into the coil in one "A", and that same power goes to the module for it's power via the other "A" terminal. This is a sorta-valid test, if the two "A"s aren't connected, the module doesn't get power and the vehicle has no spark. It's also something I've never considered before, never tested before, 'cause I've never seen or heard of a failure here.

The IMPORTANT Test Not Shown = Primary winding resistance. This would be from "A" to "B". Should be very low resistance since there's few turns of relatively large wire. Typically about 0.5 to 0.7 ohms on HEI coils, double or triple on older, ballast-resistor-style ignitions.

The other test not shown = "B" to "B". Just like the "A" to "A" test, it's not something I'd have considered before now. One of the "B" terminals leads to the module, it's how the module grounds the primary windings. The other "B" terminal would connect to the tach, if there is one. If the two "B" terminals aren't connected, the tach doesn't work, or the engine has no spark, so it doesn't run...and the tach doesn't work.

Point is, testing "A" to "B" is enormously more important than "A" to "A", or "B" to "B".

Please link to the web-page that has that diagram. I wanna research this some more.

Thank you I will use your testing procedure. I just found it on the thirdgen camaro forum, nowhere specific. It was a thread asking on how to test a coil and someone linked that picture.

 

[scott2093]

Please link to the web-page that has that diagram

Tbi 350 stumbles at idle then surges back up. - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

TBI - Tbi 350 stumbles at idle then surges back up. - I currently have a 92 c1500 with a tbi 350 that seems to stumble at idle either when in gear or in park idle but only in closed loop. I've been troubleshooting this for about 3 weeks and not getting anywhere. The truck was originally a 305...

www.thirdgen.org

 

[Schurkey]

Thanks. I just posted in that thread. Again.

Goofy me! I saw that diagram ages ago (almost exactly two years)--and never noticed the #2 test.

 

[Nick88]

Okay so Ive been playing with timing a bit and gonna play with octane ratings. I still have the slight mis though. On start up its really bad and at idle every now and then I hear it. My ACDelco wires dont really click onto the spark plugs, could that be the cause?

 

[scott2093]

My ACDelco wires dont really click onto the spark plugs, could that be the cause?

Definitely not a good thing....
Get that sorted for sure.

 

[Schurkey]

Definitely not a good thing....
Get that sorted for sure.

Squeeze the terminal with a needle-nose plier JUST A LITTLE BIT, to tighten the terminal so it snaps onto the plug better.

But, no, that's not the misfire.