Anyone had Rock auto do this to them?

[L31MaxExpress]

You do realize you used the wrong crimp on those insulated butt connections right?

I do not use insulated crimps at all. Un-insulated crimps and marine grade 4:1 heat shrink I recently found out about that has an epoxy inside to seal it.

I will also use solder sleeves in a pinch. Slide the sleeve over the wire, strip the ends, twist them together, slide the sleeve over the twisted wires, heat with a heat gun until the solder melts and the sleeve shrinks. I still put 4:1 marine shrink over the top as well. This kit is working well for me and was inexpensive. Far more reliable connection than the insulated crimps.

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[L31MaxExpress]

This is what a finished product looks like using un-insulated crimps and the heatshrink mentioned above. That is my 6 awg power wire with a 10 awg fuse link that feeds the G20s underhood junction block off the battery. If you zoom in and look closely you can actually see where the sealing epoxy squeezed out of the shrink sealing the connections.

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[GoToGuy]

I saw a test on some of the new solder type heat and shrink. A few failed the pull test. So I'm still a little reluctant to use them. Yes I agree all exterior heat shrink is sealant included.
In the large gauge wires I've been using the solder pellets for large ends, battery terminals and such. There are manufacturers guidelines, industrial standards, SAE standards, type of environment standards, FAA and NASA standards . The easiest reading is the FAA and NASA. And sure there are those that just want use hammer and call it good. They pay me to it the right way. And paid to train others the right way. So I guess I'm just stuck.

 

[someotherguy]

I'm a big fan of the ratcheting crimpers like @GoToGuy pictured. Much, much more solid of a connection than the ones that just make that single dent. I've got to where when I'm working on someone's tow lights, I'll re-crimp everything before I disconnect it, because otherwise they're bad about pulling wires out of the connectors with the factory crimps.

Richard

 

[Jimmy D]

I'm a big fan of the ratcheting crimpers like @GoToGuy pictured. Much, much more solid of a connection than the ones that just make that single dent. I've got to where when I'm working on someone's tow lights, I'll re-crimp everything before I disconnect it, because otherwise they're bad about pulling wires out of the connectors with the factory crimps.

Richard

I have 4 pairs of old crimpers and don't like any of them. Where might a guy find that one pictured above?

 

[someotherguy]

I have 4 pairs of old crimpers and don't like any of them. Where might a guy find that one pictured above?

Those are knock-offs of a much nicer tool, but for the typical DIY'er you can find them on amazon or probably any Chinesium tool store. Horror Freight likely has them. Mine look like the ones pictured; I picked up somewhere around 30 years ago, at a swap meet. You can spend a lot for some really nice ones, or spend a few bucks for ones that work fine for non-professional duty.

Richard

 

[Jimmy D]

I have 4 pairs of old crimpers and don't like any of them. Where might a guy find that one pictured above?

And as far as AC Delco labeling is concerned, I've gotten to where I don't trust any of them anymore. Now it would seem there are some few parts manufacturers who slap any supplier's label on the box and or part to give the impression that part is actually made by or for Delco or others.
Example: I searched and bought a NEW distributor for my '91 Sportside. Napa ad said "new, made for Napa" so I assumed it was made to Napa's specs. It was in a box with nice multi colored Napa labels on it. When I got it home and opened it up, it was in a plastic bag with Carquest paperwork inside. So the part manufacturer sells the exact part to multiple parts store brands. Along with slapping a Delco label on the box they could also slap a Delco label on the part too. As always, buyer beware.

 

[someotherguy]

Heck I'm surprised to see the Klein version for only $30. www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5

You could easily spend $100+ but it's not necessary. www.amazon.com/Ideal-Ratchet-Crimp-Insulated-Connectors/dp/B00O7S2YVY

Richard

 

[Jimmy D]

Hey thanks. I'll "ratchet" up my interest in buying a new pair now.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

My crimpers are Iwiss brand and they have been working great for 2 years now. Wired multiple vehicles and engine management swaps with them.