4wd oil cooler delete

[denverkenyon99]

One quick question.
Its a 1990 Chevy K1500. I want to delete the cooler and the lines, but i dont want to use the oem block. I have an adapter to accept an ACDelco PF1218.

Is there enough room for this filter between the block and the driveshaft to clear the driveshaft? The filter is 4.5 inches tall. If not, what is the shorter version of this filter?

(Yes, i will hold onto this oem block in case i want to put the cooler lines back on. I am experimenting.)

 

[denverkenyon99]

Nevermind. Found what i was looking for. An acdelco pf454 will fit. Same diameter, but only about 3” tall.

 

[Cadillacmak]

Nevermind. Found what i was looking for. An acdelco pf454 will fit. Same diameter, but only about 3” tall.

I have that setup in my 97 suburban. Wix 51069 also works. Not sure how tall but been running those for a few years. Off-roading and in 4x4 half the year, no issues.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I am actually a big fan of the factory setup. It works both to heat and cool the oil as needed. I feel it is very much a contributing factor to why GMs of this period ran as long as they did by helping insure the oil was at its correct viscosity as quickly as possible and did not lose its viscosity at higher sustained engine loading. I gained 10-15 psi of hot idle oil pressure re-installing the cleaned cooler adapter and new lines on my 383 when I replaced the radiator after replacing the 350 that had run metal through it. In cold weather the oil pressure also drops down to a normal running pressure much more quickly as the oil heats up 2-3x as quickly to where it actually needs to run at temperature wise. This minimizes moisture contamination and sludging.

 

[GoToGuy]

You could also just remove the jiffy quick connects on oil cooler filter adapter and install two 3/8 pipe plugs in place of the QD's.

 

[GoToGuy]

GM has a good idea, why screw with it?

 

[denverkenyon99]

I have that setup in my 97 suburban. Wix 51069 also works. Not sure how tall but been running those for a few years. Off-roading and in 4x4 half the year, no issues.

Thanks for your input. That filter is about the same size as the pf1218, or the pf25, so i think ill settle with a pf454, or equivalent

 

[denverkenyon99]

GM has a good idea, why screw with it?

I have only had bad experiences with replacement cooler lines on my other vehicle, (1991 s10). It didnt matter the brand, they would always start leaking from the crimps within a week. I dont want to spend the time or the money constantly replacing the lines because they keep failing.

This is why i am going to try this first, and as i said in my original post, i am experimenting.

 

[denverkenyon99]

I am actually a big fan of the factory setup. It works both to heat and cool the oil as needed. I feel it is very much a contributing factor to why GMs of this period ran as long as they did by helping insure the oil was at its correct viscosity as quickly as possible and did not lose its viscosity at higher sustained engine loading. I gained 10-15 psi of hot idle oil pressure re-installing the cleaned cooler adapter and new lines on my 383 when I replaced the radiator after replacing the 350 that had run metal through it. In cold weather the oil pressure also drops down to a normal running pressure much more quickly as the oil heats up 2-3x as quickly to where it actually needs to run at temperature wise. This minimizes moisture contamination and sludging.

I understand what you’re saying. Im just experimenting with how my truck runs. The engine temp never gets above 175° (on purpose), last owner overheated it due to radiator failure, and cracked the heads and blew the head gaskets, and the replacement heads i found and rebuilt are the low compression heads.

If i find that i have issues with how it performs, i will be putting the cooler back on, and running my own cooler lines, and not some crimp connection factory lines.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I understand what you’re saying. Im just experimenting with how my truck runs. The engine temp never gets above 175° (on purpose), last owner overheated it due to radiator failure, and cracked the heads and blew the head gaskets, and the replacement heads i found and rebuilt are the low compression heads.

If i find that i have issues with how it performs, i will be putting the cooler back on, and running my own cooler lines, and not some crimp connection factory lines.

If they are TBI 350 heads they all have the same ~65cc chamber.