3/4 Ton of fun - ‘95 Sierra

[fancyTBI]

Drove it today. It feels just like the first one. However, now my steering wheel is turned to the left much more. It had a little bit of turn to it because of the crowned roads; more pronounced now. Not sure what’s up with that. It didn’t fall out of alignment, everything is all tight and greased, steering shaft is installed correctly, box is indexed right. Oh well.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I tackled driving it really hard today. And it did fine. The groaning is gone, replaced with typical slow speed PS pump whine.

Truck squeaks and rattles on the rear. Driver side shock rubs on the lower shock extension. Need to clearance that a bit. Passenger side shock hardware is a bit loose, need to tighten that up.

The old box is worse than the Borgeson. It’s funny how when I had everything stock it drove pretty good to me. Now that everything else is new but the box, you can definitely feel how loose it is.

Also relocated the VSSB to the top of the computer with a bit of Velcro. It’s on there snug now and will be easy to recalibrate if needed.

I’ll probably never sell it. There’s just a lot of small things to work on and sometimes I can’t see the forest through the trees. It’s drive-able and that’s good. 7-1-24 is when the ‘94 project begins.

 

[fancyTBI]

So I drove this for about 5 hours yesterday.

It feels real loose again in the front. The interstate is a miserable driving experience. It’s like driving a bowling ball down a lane with guards. Back and forth, mind of its own almost. The whole mis-aligned steering wheel has me thinking that maybe it fell out of alignment at some point. The only thing I did when I removed the first Borgeson box was I took the drivers side inner tie rod off. I didn’t adjust it and I re-installed and torqued it correctly. The box is timed correctly. Pitman arm is parallel to the frame, flat spot on top, shaft slides on no problem, just like the old one, except now the steering wheel is off. Is it possible I messed something up with the tie rod? I don’t see how.

I might call WC Fab and get it in again. This time I will take the tech out on the road and show them what I mean. I already told them twice that they should take it out and drive it to see how it feels. I don’t think they did that.

Back to square one.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Don't give up on it. I'm sure it will get figured out soon enough, and it will be something so silly you won't be able to stop laughing!

 

[Keeper]

So I drove this for about 5 hours yesterday.

It feels real loose again in the front. The interstate is a miserable driving experience. It’s like driving a bowling ball down a lane with guards. Back and forth, mind of its own almost. The whole mis-aligned steering wheel has me thinking that maybe it fell out of alignment at some point. The only thing I did when I removed the first Borgeson box was I took the drivers side inner tie rod off. I didn’t adjust it and I re-installed and torqued it correctly. The box is timed correctly. Pitman arm is parallel to the frame, flat spot on top, shaft slides on no problem, just like the old one, except now the steering wheel is off. Is it possible I messed something up with the tie rod? I don’t see how.

I might call WC Fab and get it in again. This time I will take the tech out on the road and show them what I mean. I already told them twice that they should take it out and drive it to see how it feels. I don’t think they did that.

Back to square one.

Rag joint?

 

[Caman96]

I’m going to just throw this out after digging into these steering boxes. From what I’ve can see is there were at least 3 different versions for our trucks…maybe more. The Borgeson, from their own site, confirm fitment for all 88-98 years. So why did GM make different versions, yet Borgeson has it all figured out in one box? I found this yesterday on another forum from our own @Schurkey:
“
Seems the same basic steering gear design is used on 1988--2000 vehicles including C/K pickups, Suburban, Blazer, Yukon, Tahoe, and even some Dodge Ram trucks, including 1/2, 3/4, and 1-ton vehicles.

In my search, four part numbers show up for these vehicles from 1988 to 2000. All have three mounting bolts, the same plumbing threads (M18 X 1.5; M16 X 1.5), the same size input shaft (3/4"), the same diameter output shaft (1 1/4") and the same spline count (32). In short...should be interchangeable.

NSP 88278091 = the one specified for my truck (88--95 C/K1500, and others)
Gear box turns = 2 5/8--3 1/16

NSP 88278117 = 1996 C/K, various Suburban, Tahoe
Gear box turns = 2 5/8

NSP 88278090 = 1997--2000 C/K, various Suburban, Tahoe, Ram
Gear box turns = 3 -- 3 1/2

NSP 88278127 = 1999--2000 Escalade, 1998-1999 C/K and Suburban, 1998--2000 Tahoe
Gear box turns = 3 1/16”.

This to. According to this, Saginaw made many different versions for our trucks. It only makes sense that one that came with EVO would have a different box than a 1995.

How To Identify Your Steering Gear Box - Lee Power Steering

Our comprehensive guide will help you identify your power steering gearbox. We sell & service 5 different Saginaw gearboxes: Saginaw 800/808, 708, GMT & Ford.

leepowersteering.com

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There were different pumps as well that were paired with appropriate steering gears. Anyway, it’s got me wondering.

 

[Caman96]

Also, maybe that’s why it can be hit or miss even with some of the Blue Top or Redhead boxes. Are they taking the time to give you the specific box for your truck or do you just get a rebuilt box from 88-98? Did those who’ve had good luck with those brands maybe just luck out and get the correct year box? IDK, seems worth asking though. Does the guy who has a 95 and gets a Redhead that actually is a rebuilt 98 that was built for an EVO system, and it feels too loose because it has an unmatched pump with wrong pressure?
Edit: I did look at Redhead site, and yes they do have year specific boxes. I guess you just have to trust that you get your specific version.
I also came across some information saying one of the differences in them was the torsion valving. Each one, on the domed aluminum cap, on the end of box had a Broadcast Code that I guess was what determined which type you got. I took a picture of mine yesterday. You can make out JT on mine.

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[0xDEADBEEF]

So I drove this for about 5 hours yesterday.

It feels real loose again in the front. The interstate is a miserable driving experience. It’s like driving a bowling ball down a lane with guards. Back and forth, mind of its own almost. The whole mis-aligned steering wheel has me thinking that maybe it fell out of alignment at some point. The only thing I did when I removed the first Borgeson box was I took the drivers side inner tie rod off. I didn’t adjust it and I re-installed and torqued it correctly. The box is timed correctly. Pitman arm is parallel to the frame, flat spot on top, shaft slides on no problem, just like the old one, except now the steering wheel is off. Is it possible I messed something up with the tie rod? I don’t see how.

I might call WC Fab and get it in again. This time I will take the tech out on the road and show them what I mean. I already told them twice that they should take it out and drive it to see how it feels. I don’t think they did that.

Back to square one.

I'm not a mechanic, but I am under the impression that anytime you R&R a steering component you should get an alignment. Simply unbolting the steering rack to install a new front swaybar on my vette and then bolting it back down without touching anything else made my steering wheel off. It drove fine, but it bugged the crap out of me.

Make sure everything is tight. That can explain why it looks good on the alignment rack but drives unpredictably.

 

[Caman96]

Make sure everything is tight. That can explain why it looks good on the alignment rack but drives unpredictably.

I would think an alignment shop, as part of an alignment, would be checking all that.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I would think an alignment shop, as part of an alignment, would be checking all that.

What they should do and what they really do aren't always the same thing. Sadly.