Bearings and rings for a novice builder

rebelyell said:

And, what is that specific reason, pray tell?

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Sorry to the OP for the derailing.

Supercharged111 said:

Coarse hone for iron rings and finer hone for moly rings. On my 3 stone hone it's 240 grit for iron and 320 grit for moly. Iron breaks in faster but wears out faster, moly takes more time to seat but wears better. I'm not sure which is better more resistant to detonation in terms of failure.

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As you point out it's all about cyl wall prep for the type of ring used..can't stress that enough. The Moly coated ring is more susceptible to damage regarding detonation. Not the ring as a whole, but rather the coating.

Hipster said:

Karts are very popular here
https://fishelmotorsports.com/ less than mile up the street, track is a few miles away. I've been in and out of there with friends and co workers. . Buys 10 engines at a time, tear them all down, measure and blueprint everything and maybe comes up with 2 or 3 competitive engines. Angle mill this or that. Dude's are nuts looking for a 1/2 ounce of power. Nascar serious. Painted quite a few Karts and painted quite a few sets of engine tins for P&P Speed.

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Yeah,I studied the rule book long and hard and if it didn't say I couldn't do something I did it. They actually made a rule for one of my tricks. We had five karts I was building motors for and they all came in at the front of the pack. Not all of it was motors,we learned to drive on a 1/16 mile egg shaped bull ring with one straight that a neighbor and his son beat out in his back yard. Then we got sick and put down clay and bought sidewinder karts. Had a flag stand that was a flying bridge off a boat and a grandstand made out of steel mobile home steps and 2 X 12's. We'd race all day then pig out and get drunk,,,,good times!
We went out into the real world and started racing on a 1/4 mile dirt oval,it was like a super speedway for us. Damn near fall asleep going down those long straightaways. Most of my motors came off of tillers and shredders or anything that had a 5hp horizontal Briggs engine on it. I only built a couple brand new Raptor engines and they didn't run any better than the junkers I was reworking, Actually I think the heavier cranks slowed them down a little off the turns.

0xDEADBEEF said:

Sorry to the OP for the derailing.

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0xDEADBEEF said:

There's a reason pretty much every real race car has a dry sump engine.

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And, what is that specific reason, pray tell?

I asked you to answer, ain't watching some more clickbait movies; please answer/explain in your own words how it is that "there's a reason pretty much every real race car has a dry sump engine" ?

rebelyell said:

And, what is that specific reason, pray tell?

I asked you to answer, ain't watching some more clickbait movies; please answer/explain in your own words how it is that "there's a reason pretty much every real race car has a dry sump engine" ?

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I don't work for you. Google it.

0xDEADBEEF said:

I don't work for you. Google it.

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I want you to go to a roundy-round "claimer" race, get on the mic, and tell them they are not racing real race cars. Get ready for a stampede fron the stands and racers. lol You can't get much more real race car than a modified, cut up, and caged one until you go full chassis. GM makes a sealed crate engine with a wet sump pan for those types of classes.

Hipster said:

I want you to go to a roundy-round "claimer" race, get on the mic, and tell them they are not racing real race cars. lol You can't get much more real race can than a modified, cut up, and caged one until you go full chassis. GM makes a sealed crate engine with a pan for those types of classes.

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It's just my bias towards road racing. I don't pay much attention to that other stuff.

I'd still run a dry sump though.

BigTater said:

stock 1994 5.7L build, my very first engine build

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Lotsa guys wreck their first engine build, and generally it's because they don't understand how clean things need to be.

Every part you use has to be washed in hot, sudsy (laundry detergent works well) water...including stuff you pull out of a brand-new, sealed box. Then rinsed, then blown dry with compressed air.

Assure that the torque wrench you're using has been checked for accuracy. Cheap-junk torque wrenches are not a bargain.

There's a dozen books about building SBC engines; obtain and read at least three.

BigTater said:

I’m still really indecisive on what bearings and rings to use in this build.

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Bi-metal or tri-metal makes little difference in a stock-ish build. GM uses bi-metal, or at least they used to.

Similarly, GM started using Moly-faced top rings in the '65 396, and far as I know every Chevy big-block ever built since then came from GM with Moly-faced rings. The Moly facing is porous, it holds oil and is therefore very easy on cylinder walls. I won't build an engine with plain iron rings. Moly-faced has been the go-to for decades. There are different levels of Moly facings, though.

It's been said that with a proper hone--using a torque plate and the correct stones/procedures, that Moly rings are broken-in on the starter motor when the engine is cranked-over the first time. That's something of an exaggeration, but not by much.

If this were me--and it is, I'm going to get around to assembling an offset-ground "stroker" 3.5" stroke 350 one of these months--I'd be using the flat-top pistons from a '91 Caprice 5.7L. They're inexpensive, reasonably durable, have adequate compression yet cause no detonation in a TBI 1/2-ton truck application, and use a relatively thin, modern ring pack. Kinda thinking these are the same pistons used in the LT1 engines of the early '90s. The one problem with the aftermarket version of those pistons is that they've been sabotaged with .010 reduced compression height.

You'd probably want to have the block square-decked if not zero-decked, and then select a head gasket thickness to get a decent quench/squish distance.

0xDEADBEEF said:

I don't work for you. Google it.

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Yup, & danged fortunate for both of us. That yellow C8 at COTA --- that's not Really a race car either, even though it was delivered w/ dry sump --- as is every C8 ---do ya think a dry sump = real race car?
Reference late seventies 4 door sedan MB 450SEL 6.9 --- a heavy freakin' tank. But it's got a dry sump.


And, ya still haven't answered --- most likely that's primarily because ya have nothing of your own!
When ya talk trash, ya should back it up or shut it up. As has been said, go to a local CT then FAFO !