Plus, you get less friction - goes faster that wayAs long as they think you're out there racing and not fogging for skeeters it's all good. lol
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Plus, you get less friction - goes faster that wayAs long as they think you're out there racing and not fogging for skeeters it's all good. lol
Plus, you get less friction - goes faster that way
Read an article this morning, and it's been known in drag racing for at least multiple decades, the effects of crank windage and oil levels. So if he starts with a full load of oil and is down a couple of quarts by the finishing laps the engine's making quite a few extra ponies. Albeit, it might be at a slightly unstable oil pressure.Plus, you get less friction - goes faster that way
Yeah,it's easier to pump foam.Read an article this morning, and it's been known in drag racing for at least multiple decades, the effects of crank windage and oil levels. So if he starts with a full load of oil and is down a couple of quarts by the finishing laps the engine's making quite a few extra ponies. Albeit, it might be at a slightly unstable oil pressure.
On the LS they were messing with it was about 50+ hp difference on an engine dyno. Didn't get into the engine build detail, wanted to see the results. They were presenting it like they just figured out running a quart low makes more power.
I have entertained the idea of making my own bearing inserts out of 6061-T6 Al. I made a clutch actuator out of it for my lathe thinking I would probably need to make another within a few months. 28yrs later it's still in there and working as good as the day I made it.GM engineers are pretty darned good at what they do. Those OE rod & main bearings aka inserts have a very good record of durability & reliability. Used to be Delco-Moraine 400 (look at back of backing).
OP BigTater: It's a near certainty your '94 5.7L delivered with Bi-metal (alum-faced) inserts in both rods & mains.
Clevite aka Mahle AND King AND Sealed Power aka Federal Mogul offers them in both Bi-metal & Tri-metal.
I can't recommend that a novice should install his own cam bearings in either sbc or BBC or LS ... requires special tool most don't have. Instead of DIY, have local auto machine shop install cam bearings.
Bi-Metal means Two metals; First a Steel Backing that's faced with a Second metal (usually an aluminum alloy).
Tri-Metal means Three metals; First a Steel Backing that has a Second layer followed by a Third Facing.
As for rings, the 800 lb Gorilla in the room (that's not mentioned so far) is ring width. More modern piston designs require thin, metric ringpaks; L35, L30 & L31 all do.
I remember seeing something like that on Engine Masters. They not only played with oil quantity, they played with different styles of oil pans.On the LS they were messing with it was about 50+ hp difference on an engine dyno. Didn't get into the engine build detail, wanted to see the results. They were presenting it like they just figured out running a quart low makes more power.
yeah maybe , just an article I read on the web, there's some gain to be had. Drag racers swear by it. 7qt. pan with 5 in it has been going on forever. Still more than a stock 4 qt pan +1 for filter. Windage trays are louvered or mesh so not totally effective and most everybody that switched to dry sump claim improvements getting the oil almost completely out. 50hp on a 300 hp engine is a different percentage on 600 hp. Ls takes 7-8? stock? not an ls guyYeah,it's easier to pump foam.
I ain't buyin' 50hp,there was something else going on there besides draining a quart of oil.