Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I remove lots of parts that engineers put on for good reasons lol. Believe it or not I’m actually an automotive engineer myself.Put new lines on it. The oil cooler is very effective and is there for a reason.
Well it is an upgrade I purposely made on my 1983, 1987 and 1997 vans. The engines have very high oil temps without it in summer heat. The oil pressure would fall like a rock at hot idle without it. The cooler also warms the oil up more quickly which helps boil moisture out of it in cooler weather and shorter trips.I remove lots of parts that engineers put on for good reasons lol. Believe it or not I’m actually an automotive engineer myself.
I gained about 15 psi hot idle oil pressure putting the oil cooler back on the 97s 383. From 20-25 psi to 35-40 psi. The 87s 350 holds 50 psi at hot idle. Both run 60-70 psi at 1,500+ rpm completely heat soaked and running hard in Texas heat.Not that it’s scientific but a friend of mine rebuilt a high mileage TBI 350 that had an oil cooler from factory. He claimed the bearings were like brand new at 400,000 km. What’s that about 250,000 miles? He claimed it was the oil cooler that kept the bearings so good. Who knows really but I think it’s a good idea especially if towing or driven by someone like me with a lead foot lol!
Here’s a photo of the engine I just removed and it’s got a cooler on it.
One thing I have always done on that style of filter. It cannot be filled with oil like a 2wd setup can be. I always pulled the PCM fuse and spin the engine over until it builds pressure after an oil change. Pop the fuse back in and no noisy startups while the engine starves of oil for several seconds. I pull the PCM fuse to the actual PCM vs the coil wire so that it is not washing down the bores with fuel while cranking. How much difference it makes to engine life I cannot say but in my mind it is easier on the rod bearings especially since they receive oil last. I also always use a Mobil One filter that has an excellent drain back valve design. Cheaper filters will make the engine clack until oil gets back into the system everytime you cold start it. GM actually had a TSB on it years ago.Not that it’s scientific but a friend of mine rebuilt a high mileage TBI 350 that had an oil cooler from factory. He claimed the bearings were like brand new at 400,000 km. What’s that about 250,000 miles? He claimed it was the oil cooler that kept the bearings so good. Who knows really but I think it’s a good idea especially if towing or driven by someone like me with a lead foot lol!
Here’s a photo of the engine I just removed and it’s got a cooler on it.
Good idea!! Hey you’re a smart guy you may know. Can I tap into my engine oil cooler lines to feed and return oil from my turbocharger? It only takes a tiny amount of oil to feed the turbo. Probably not the drain, I would want that to be a separate line directly to the pan for return from the turbo. But in theory I can run the oil feed to the turbo from anywhere.One thing I have always done on that style of filter. It cannot be filled with oil like a 2wd setup can be. I always pulled the PCM fuse and spin the engine over until it builds pressure after an oil change. Pop the fuse back in and no noisy startups while the engine starves of oil for several seconds. I pull the PCM fuse to the actual PCM vs the coil wire so that it is not washing down the bores with fuel while cranking. How much difference it makes to engine life I cannot say but in my mind it is easier on the rod bearings especially since they receive oil last. I also always use a Mobil One filter that has an excellent drain back valve design. Cheaper filters will make the engine clack until oil gets back into the system everytime you cold start it. GM actually had a TSB on it years ago.