AC issue replaced everything

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rcdatadude

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To make a long story short, I replaced the AC compressor on my 98 k1500 along with Everything else. New compressor, condenser, evaporator core, heater core, orifice tube, dryer, hoses, and pressure switches including the one on the back of the compressor. Instead of using the standard AC Delco compressor, I used a Sanden 4440. I’ve had 3 AC Delco compressors on this truck. I read the Sanden compressors were a much better option, so I thought I would give it a try. We put everything on today. I added oil to each component and drew a vacuum that held for a while. I started adding Freon, but the system only took 12 ounces. The compressor started cycling but only hot air was coming through the vents with max ac full blast. A couple of questions…. One, could there be a blockage somewhere with everything being new that might keep it from taking Freon? I removed all the hose caps and plugs I saw. Second, could it be a door actuator that blends between the heater core and the evap core? I didn’t write down the pressures on the high and low side, but I can provide those tomorrow. I’m in Texas, so it’s getting pretty warm these days. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

Schurkey

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New compressor, condenser, evaporator core, heater core, orifice tube, dryer, hoses, and pressure switches including the one on the back of the compressor. Instead of using the standard AC Delco compressor, I used a Sanden 4440.

drew a vacuum that held for a while.
Held for "a while"???

So you have a leak?

I started adding Freon, but the system only took 12 ounces... ...but only hot air was coming through the vents
Of course it doesn't cool with only 12 ounces of refrigerant.

could there be a blockage somewhere with everything being new that might keep it from taking Freon?
I'd expect to see problems with the high- or low-side pressures. Maybe both.

could it be a door actuator that blends between the heater core and the evap core?
Air doors don't cause the system to not take a full charge of refrigerant.

I didn’t write down the pressures on the high and low side, but I can provide those tomorrow.
OK.
 

GoToGuy

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When you pulled the vacuum did it hold, and how long? Did you release the vacuum, then start the freon charge?
If it doesn't hold steady vacuum for at least an hour, you have a leak. You service from vacuum to Freon fill. When you open vacuum freon flows in nothing else. And as freon is drawn in low side it may seem slow, watch pressures and pump cycle speed.
 

docstoy

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When you replaced your condenser did you ck to see if replacement condenser already had orifice tube installed ? If it didn't, did you install orifice tube correctly ? I'm thinking long end of orifice tube goes toward condenser .
 

RShrimp

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My 1990 had the orifice tube in the line on the right fender well. My new Condenser had the orifice in it. If you have both it's not going to work.
 

rcdatadude

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Thanks for the advice. I tried to add Freon again this morning and it took another 18 ounces. I’m not sure why, but I no trouble this time. Once completed, I was still getting hot air out of the vents, and narrowed it down to the blend door which was replaced. My low pressure side is 40 psi and the high side is 200 psi. There were never any leaks. It held a vacuum up to the point where I added Freon. Thanks for all the help!
 

jasolhe

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wait what? the next day it just worked??? i have the same issue very similar scenario
-if the ac line has a orifice tube inside it i'm gonna be pissed that seems stupid it's un-servicable, and yes my condensor has one in it

so now it's the next day for me - try again i guess lol, if it just works i'll flip my lid
 

L31MaxExpress

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wait what? the next day it just worked??? i have the same issue very similar scenario
-if the ac line has a orifice tube inside it i'm gonna be pissed that seems stupid it's un-servicable, and yes my condensor has one in it

so now it's the next day for me - try again i guess lol, if it just works i'll flip my lid
GM played Where's Waldo on the orifice tube location in these trucks over the various models and years. Early models were in-line right before the evaporator. Later model trucks were in the condenser. Later model SUVs with rear air were in-line after the lines split for the rear unit. I have seen a lot of the SUVs get orifice tubes added in the condenser outlet which makes them have nearly no cooling. I will also add that it is entirely possible to hook the lines up backwards at the condenser as well. Shoving hot gas into the orifice tube will cause the system to not work as well.
 

jasolhe

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well this is what i got

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