Turn signals dead, emergency flashers goofy. Is it the multi function switch?

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BNielsen

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I had the same issue in my K3500; got it running after the fuel sender swap and didn't have any brake lights or turn signals, and I managed to break the 4-way flasher knob off too.
It took me maybe 2 hours taking my time to swap the stalk out, not near as difficult as I thought it'd be.
I'm probably going to shell out for an AC Delco one, this was just a cheapie unit off Rock Auto since I was in a pinch.
 

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HotWheelsBurban

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Leaving the laundry, the left signal is working normally. Right side is still a little slow but I can hear clicking under the dash. We'll see about the emergency flashers in a little bit....
The hazards blink slow to begin with, and then get to normal rhythm in a few minutes. I'm going to see about getting flashers tomorrow, and some 20 amp fuses (both #1 hazards and #16 turn signals are 20s). See what that does, and go from there....
 

Caman96

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The hazards blink slow to begin with, and then get to normal rhythm in a few minutes. I'm going to see about getting flashers tomorrow, and some 20 amp fuses (both #1 hazards and #16 turn signals are 20s). See what that does, and go from there....
Do you have cruise control and tilt wheel?
 

someotherguy

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I can't imagine any special tools needed to do the job beyond the usual steering wheel puller set and lock ring depressor set, and I wanna say the screws in the clamshell are e-torx. In the past, I've used regular 1/4" drive deep sockets on those and didn't have any trouble since they're small fasteners at very low torque levels.

I'd be happy to help if you think you'd be in the area any time soon. Those diamondplate bedrail protectors are sitting here waiting on you, too..

As far as choosing the part, I think I'd pick Rostra over Dorman - and the Rostra is $20 cheaper. No real basis in feeling like one is better than the other except I have no love for Dorman, and I believe Rostra is known for being an OE-supplier for a lot of stuff.

I don't think it would be your taillight circuit boards if your brake and taillights are functioning correctly, but you can always take them out of the loop (as well as potential trouble from the trailer harness) by disconnecting near the end of the driver side frame rail and check the truck end of the harness with a test light. Trailer harnesses are well-known for causing issues, even the nice ones that Tee in at that connector vs. being tapped in or hacked in otherwise. Ground your test light to the frame, then check the connector from the truck end - yellow is left turn/brake, dark green is right turn/brake, light green is reverse, brown is taillights/tag lights.

Richard
 

HotWheelsBurban

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X2, was digging into Rostra lately and the seem like a legit US manufacturing company.
Yup I'm leaning towards the Rostra. It's ~$80 on Rock Auto and the Standard one is $100+. Genuine GM is $225.... Gotta see what my local parts store has, and how much my friend can get it for. RA is great but to get it quickly will cost as much as the part....
Also I have to see what my schedule is this week, and what shifts I'm on. Going to replace the flasher and the two fuses and see if that helps any. Prolly still gonna have to replace the stick and switch, but I need to see what happens with these other items.
 
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