[SOLVED] 1995 k2500 7.4 TBI running HORRIBLY

[Schurkey]

www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injector-Pigtail-Connector-12102568/dp/B0041IK318/ref=sr_1_1?

 

[Cuckfield]

www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injector-Pigtail-Connector-12102568/dp/B0041IK318/ref=sr_1_1?

Will do, thanks. Just cut the old wire and splice them and wrap with electrical tape?

 

[scott2093]

I think I figured out what was wrong; one of the harnesses to my two fuel injectors is broken so they don't lock in on the tabs in the injector very well; a careless bump and boom, half of my cylinders aren't getting fuel! Hahahaha. That would do it. Any advice on how to fix the connector that plugs onto the top?

Awesome...That happened to me when my air cleaner hit one of the pods either removing or taking it off...Chased my tail for a bit.....

Here are some thoughts on connecting new wires there

Fuel injector wire knicked.

I saw this when changing some sensors. Can I fix this with electric tape or what would be the best fix until I can get a new on?

www.gmt400.com

 

[Cuckfield]

Awesome...That happened to me when my air cleaner hit one of the pods either removing or taking it off...Chased my tail for a bit.....

Here are some thoughts on connecting new wires there

Fuel injector wire knicked.

I saw this when changing some sensors. Can I fix this with electric tape or what would be the best fix until I can get a new on?

www.gmt400.com

Thanks, fella. I'll probably just use heat shrink cramped butt joints and see how that works.

 

[someotherguy]

Sounds like you found a major issue there with a damaged injector connection. Good work.

That's kind of a wacky-looking vacuum setup, but I don't have a '95 7.4 handy to compare to (sold that truck many years ago) - but my '93 7.4 isn't set up like that, at all.

Does your air cleaner housing still have the vacuum diagram sticker on it?

Richard

 

[Jimmy D]

My concern would be those open vacuum lines first. It cannot run right with vacuum leaks.

 

[udidwht]

Hello, I have the above mentioned configuration.
I did a tune up a week ago (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, CTS) to address what I thought was a bad ignition set, because I have noticed when my truck gets warm it runs much worse and shudders on acceleration and misfires.

No improvement after these replacements; I have fully verified the job was done properly, and timing was dead on at 4 degrees when checked with a light.

However, today, my truck has been CONSTANTLY misfiring, from cold start through to warm. It also idles incredibly badly, sounds like it wants to die, and is completely gutless. It surges and bogs, and to get anywhere in it I have to gently feather the throttle.

Not only that, but when I am at high speeds (50+) and I take my foot off the gas, it backfires, loudly. Like a gunshot going off.

The fuel pump makes noise when I prime it, the whirring noise that is normal. I replaced the filter and tested pressure with a loaned autozone gauge and I got like 20+ psi. Not sure what that's about.

I am at a loss for what is next. I have trawled the forums and I frankly don't know what to check next. What could possibly cause it to suddenly run THIS badly? It's practically unrivaled, but by some miracle it doesn't die.

20+ is low. 94-95 is 26-32psi preferably 30-32psi

Also do not forget the possibility of the distributor stator being cracked.

 

[Schurkey]

I'll probably just use heat shrink cramped butt joints and see how that works.

Not very well long-term.

In MY driveway, that'd get soldered before the heat-shrink tubing insulated the wire. Maybe crimped, then soldered, then heat-shrink. Smaller-gauge wire is tougher to crimp--hard to find crimp sleeves small enough.

Ideally the heat-shrink tubing has adhesive on the inside.

Here's 12-gauge for my starter solenoid. I'd have used purple wire instead of red...if I'd had any.

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