Probably the fuel pump, eh?Fuel pressure, resolve that. As Schurkey and someotherguy pointed out, ~20psi is too low.
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Probably the fuel pump, eh?Fuel pressure, resolve that. As Schurkey and someotherguy pointed out, ~20psi is too low.
Start with confirming pressure, if it's low, replace the filter.Probably the fuel pump, eh?
Word. Just replaced the filter yesterday before making this post. I took my readings after replacing filter.Start with confirming pressure, if it's low, replace the filter.
Richard
I'll give this a shot, thanks.Consider replacing the ICM(ignition control module),you'll find it in the distributor.I've had similar problems with my '95 Burb and replacing the ICM would solve them.If you do replace it be sure to use an ACDelco part and nothing else.I recently had problems with wifey's '99 Burb and tried two Delphi ICMs and both were bad,put an ACDelco in it and it fired right up.
That probably rules-out a slipped damper, mis-matched damper/timing pointer set, and a faulty timing light.No, I did not have to turn the dizzy.
Of course. You'd need an appropriate scan tool with suitable software, and the connector cable. Some guys go for the laptop/smartphone, software, and connector cable. I prefer an actual scan tool to a scan tool simulation.Can you read a '95 with an obd1? I always hear you can't.
VERIFY VOLTAGE at the fuel pump. More is better--within a volt or two of system voltage. Measure as close to the pump as practical--generally the rearmost connector in the harness before the harness goes up 'n' over the tank. The pump MUST BE RUNNING when you check voltage. ALSO, verify voltage on the ground wire for the fuel pump. Again, pump must be running, and test as close to the pump as practical. Less is better.I will double check and re-verify fuel pressure tomorrow.
Sorry, I've never messed with multimeters/electronic stuff before; how can I verify fuel pump voltage?That probably rules-out a slipped damper, mis-matched damper/timing pointer set, and a faulty timing light.
Of course. You'd need an appropriate scan tool with suitable software, and the connector cable. Some guys go for the laptop/smartphone, software, and connector cable. I prefer an actual scan tool to a scan tool simulation.
VERIFY VOLTAGE at the fuel pump. As close to the pump as practical--generally the rearmost connector in the harness before the harness goes up 'n' over the tank. The pump MUST BE RUNNING when you check voltage.
You can replace the pump a hundred times, and still have low fuel pressure if the pump is starving for power.
On my 93 there is a 3way harness back by the gas tank that goes to the fuel pump. The gray wire is where you want to see the pump voltage with truck running. Yours looks to be gray as well.Sorry, I've never messed with multimeters/electronic stuff before; how can I verify fuel pump voltage?
Trying to visualize this..."test harness" that you can pierce the insulation and not damage the actual vehicle harness