I didn’t even need to use the splash guard at idle nothing spilled over I backed the nuts off until I heard chatter then one at a time in smaller increments than 1/4 turns I clockwise the ratchet until I ever do slightly stopped hearing chatter . Did this on all 8 passenger bank
Then I shut the truck off and ran 1/4 turn 12 noon to 3pm preload on all 8
Your process sounds good. So if I'm understanding you correctly, the valvetrain is currently
quiet, but the #8 cylinder has no compression?
I did not run 1/2 turn (12-6)
Just a 1/4 turn . It sounded good but had the miss it has had the miss ever since the first random clatter occurred when on my road trip . The truck never missed before that so this miss has been before the adjustment also . The plugs looked horid the cap was crusty so I did all the plug wires cap rotor etc to try and alleviate the miss before I went and did the compression check .
So you have renewed the high voltage side of the ignition. Good to know.
All I know is zero compression is odd it should be low or read something
Are you sure that #8 has zero compression? What I mean is that if your
compression gauge managed to inhale a piece of grit in all the excitement
before you did #8 cylinder (and it was the last one you did) then maybe
we're getting this weird result because of the test gear, and not the state
of that cylinder? If you could verify that the compression tester is still
working on 1 of the previously good cylinders that would help to eliminate
this possibility.
So that’s what I attest it to the nut adjustment maybe !
The thing that you read elsewhere regarding low vs no compression. For example,
if you had weak/worn piston rings or a valve seat starting to burn, then you might
get a 40 or 60 psi reading. But when the valve preload is accidentally set too deep,
this bottoms out the pushrod plunger, and further tightening starts opening the
valve up. And having a valve hung open will indeed give you a true zero compression reading.
****
So there you have it. Prove that the compression tester gauge is still working
properly by using it on a known-good cylinder, and if it is reporting reliable
readings, then go ahead and recheck the #8 cylinder rocker arm settings.
And be sure to count many turns it takes to get the lifters clacking.
(1/4 turn, 1/2 turn...1 1/2 turns, etc)
EDIT: When you pull the #8 spark plug, how does it look? Normal? Or wet
with fuel? Or worse? If it looks anything other than perfect, then take a
sharp photo of that & post it along with your other observations.