Rag Joint Delete Steering Shafts

[Remodelmaster]

I’m interested in possibly installing this on my 1999 K2500 Suburban. I’ve read conflicting information concerning whether or not it’s a good idea to install one on a 4X4. I don’t see where it would matter but I wanted to get your opinion and possibly others that know more about this kind of stuff before I order. I’m considering ordering the lower steering shaft and possibly the intermediate. Please advise.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I’m interested in possibly installing this on my 1999 K2500 Suburban.

Not sure what you're referring to when you said "this", but...

On a 1999, if all you want to do is delete the rag joint, then simply replace it with one of the many U-joints that are out there. They’re ~$80-100 on Amazon from at least two different mfgrs, Borgeson and Flaming River. I also see some cheapie for ~$30.

Look for:

Borgeson 015231 1" DD x 3/4"-30 Steering U-Joint

Flaming River FR1746DD Billet-Joint 1"-DD X 3/4"-30 Steering U-Joint

The early-years GMT400s required some other sort of intermediate shaft, but the later ones do not.

I installed one on my 1998 K1500 Suburban.

I've installed them on my 1995 S10s too.

Cunningham appears to offer (have offered?) a complete shaft / U-joint assy, if you don't wish to remove the rag joint from your own shaft and install the U-joint upon it.

 

[Remodelmaster]

Not sure what you're referring to when you said "this", but...

On a 1999, if all you want to do is delete the rag joint, then simply replace it with one of the many U-joints that are out there. They’re ~$80-100 on Amazon from at least two different mfgrs, Borgeson and Flaming River. I also see some cheapie for ~$30.

Look for:

Borgeson 015231 1" DD x 3/4"-30 Steering U-Joint

Flaming River FR1746DD Billet-Joint 1"-DD X 3/4"-30 Steering U-Joint

The early-years GMT400s required some other sort of intermediate shaft, but the later ones do not.

I installed one on my 1998 K1500 Suburban.

I've installed them on my 1995 S10s too.

Cunningham appears to offer (have offered?) a complete shaft / U-joint assy, if you don't wish to remove the rag joint from your own shaft and install the U-joint upon it.

I appreciate the reply and apologize for not being clearer. I was referring to the lower half steering shaft that Cunningham Machine offers and possibly the intermediate shaft that they offer. I imagine that the one going into the firewall doesn’t need to be replaced? I suspect your K1500 and my K2500 have the same steering components in that area? We just rebuilt the entire front end last weekend, installed a new engine a couple of months ago and now I’m just trying to get that last little bit of wondering out of the steering. Could you tell a difference with the U-joint vs the rag joint?

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I appreciate the reply and apologize for not being clearer. I was referring to the lower half steering shaft that Cunningham Machine offers and possibly the intermediate shaft that they offer. I imagine that the one going into the firewall doesn’t need to be replaced? I suspect your K1500 and my K2500 have the same steering components in that area? We just rebuilt the entire front end last weekend, installed a new engine a couple of months ago and now I’m just trying to get that last little bit of wondering out of the steering. Could you tell a difference with the U-joint vs the rag joint?

The difference in feel between the U-joint and the rag depends in part on how much steering effort is required on your truck.

For instance, some of the 1995 trucks had heavy steering.

In 1999, particularly if you have EVO, you may not notice it as much at low speed where steering effort is light.

Probably what was most telling, for me, was when I clamped the input shaft of the steering gear in place using a vice grip, and then got in the truck and turned the wheel from side to side. In this situation the only play in the wheel is due to “give” in the rag joint, and I was surprised how little effort it took to overcome.

I will say that, in the vehicles in which I’ve installed a U-joint, I’ve noticed more “hiss” noise, inside the cabin, from the hydraulic system / steering gear. My assessment is the U-joint couples the hydraulic noise from the steering gear up into the steering shaft and wheel, rendering it more audible in the cabin. I don’t really notice the noise anymore, but I did when I first put the U-joint in. I guess now I’m accustomed to it.

Here’s a picture of mine with the OE shaft and replacement U-joint in place, but you can’t see the U joint because it’s hidden behind the protective cover.

 

[Cuckfield]

The difference in feel between the U-joint and the rag depends in part on how much steering effort is required on your truck.

For instance, some of the 1995 trucks had heavy steering.

In 1999, particularly if you have EVO, you may not notice it as much at low speed where steering effort is light.

Probably what was most telling, for me, was when I clamped the input shaft of the steering gear in place using a vice grip, and then got in the truck and turned the wheel from side to side. In this situation the only play in the wheel is due to “give” in the rag joint, and I was surprised how little effort it took to overcome.

I will say that, in the vehicles in which I’ve installed a U-joint, I’ve noticed more “hiss” noise, inside the cabin, from the hydraulic system / steering gear. My assessment is the U-joint couples the hydraulic noise from the steering gear up into the steering shaft and wheel, rendering it more audible in the cabin. I don’t really notice the noise anymore, but I did when I first put the U-joint in. I guess now I’m accustomed to it.

Here’s a picture of mine with the OE shaft and replacement U-joint in place, but you can’t see the U joint because it’s hidden behind the protective cover.

I also noticed that when I installed mine with a junkyard steering box from an old suburban. Thought something was wrong, but this makes a lot more sense. Great little piece of metal.

 

[whataTRUUUCK]

I got the lower shaft u-joint for my Burb. It was the final thing in the front steering and suspension that I replaced.
It does give better feedback and response, but man was it a pain to separate the original upper and lower shaft.
It also took 3 attempts to get the splines to line up correctly; first it was off 2 splines to the left, then 1 spline to the right, the third attempt nailed it and it drove straight again.

How were you able to tell that it was off by one or two splines? I really had trouble visualizing if I got it completely on the flat spot of the steering gear or not....hopefully i did on my 1st try