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Goodmonring everyone, hope all is well.

So I have a 1990 GMC k2500 350/turbo400 trans. I need some thoughts on this one !

Once in a while I will drive the truck for 20-60 min get to my destination and then come back out within say 10 min and try to start the truck and I get a no crack no start. If I let the truck sit like 20 min it'll start right up no issue. It seems like this happens in the heat. Now I replaced the following in the last year, starter, ground straps, battery cables, battery, Neutral safety switch, basically everything with ignition and starting the engine is new except the ignition switch itself which I have one. the other thing it won't let me do is when I get the no start no crack is it won't let me jump the starter with the solenoid. I suppose I could have a bad solenoid. Its really strange.
 

RoyBob

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Next time move the shifter to neutral and try that , mine did that and it was just the bolt that runs through the Battery Negative side I just Thought it was making contact do you loose all power ? when this happens
 
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I appreciate the response gTuys ! when the key is turned to the on position I have full power and the brand new fuel pump pumps. my cables are all secure and 1 gauge. All wiring is tight. Alright ill prolly replace the whole starter again and then take the rebuild back the amish guy. He does great work !
 

docstoy

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Ck starter after you remove it, if you can make it work with jumper cables you could possibly have something going on with battery connection/continuity even though you said we're tight could have to much resistance
 

docstoy

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If for some reason moisture got into cables by the crimped end causing corrosion , a lot of manufactured cables are not assembled with sealer to wire coating to seal out moisture
 

Schurkey

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1990 GMC k2500 350/turbo400 trans.

I will drive the truck for 20-60 min get to my destination and then come back out within say 10 min and try to start the truck and I get a no crack no start. If I let the truck sit like 20 min it'll start right up no issue. It seems like this happens in the heat.
USUALLY a matter of insufficient voltage at the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. Starter solenoid does not "click", and the starter motor doesn't crank.

Now I replaced the following in the last year, starter
Does it still have the OEM heat shield?

What starter is this--the old-syle, heavy direct-drive; or the newer Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction (PMGR) style?

Did you use the correct starter bolts, and a brace/bracket at the front of the starter?

when I get the no start no crack is it won't let me jump the starter with the solenoid. I suppose I could have a bad solenoid.
You apply battery voltage to the "S" terminal, and the starter doesn't crank? If so, that's a faulty solenoid, or faulty starter motor, or lack of battery power/ground on the main cables.
 
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