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USUALLY a matter of insufficient voltage at the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. Starter solenoid does not "click", and the starter motor doesn't crank.


Does it still have the OEM heat shield?

What starter is this--the old-syle, heavy direct-drive; or the newer Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction (PMGR) style?

Did you use the correct starter bolts, and a brace/bracket at the front of the starter?


You apply battery voltage to the "S" terminal, and the starter doesn't crank? If so, that's a faulty solenoid, or faulty starter motor, or lack of battery power/ground on the main cables.
Its the old style/ factory bolts/ im not sure of the brace bracket its just two larger bolts and there never was a heat shield
 

Schurkey

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Its the old style/ factory bolts/ im not sure of the brace bracket its just two larger bolts and there never was a heat shield
You absolutely must have the brace from the front of the starter, to the block when using the old-style, bigass starter. There's at least two different ones, maybe more depending on the starter and the engine.

Last I looked, GM was still selling at least the most-popular of them. The Treasure Yards will have 'em, too.
Small-block w/ 168-tooth flywheel:

Big-block w/ 168-tooth flywheel:

Of course there was a heat shield. Someone took it off, and failed to replace it.
 

thinger2

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Goodmonring everyone, hope all is well.

So I have a 1990 GMC k2500 350/turbo400 trans. I need some thoughts on this one !

Once in a while I will drive the truck for 20-60 min get to my destination and then come back out within say 10 min and try to start the truck and I get a no crack no start. If I let the truck sit like 20 min it'll start right up no issue. It seems like this happens in the heat. Now I replaced the following in the last year, starter, ground straps, battery cables, battery, Neutral safety switch, basically everything with ignition and starting the engine is new except the ignition switch itself which I have one. the other thing it won't let me do is when I get the no start no crack is it won't let me jump the starter with the solenoid. I suppose I could have a bad solenoid. Its really strange.
You have heat soak at the s wire and that has caused an arc fualt in the solenoid.
If the solenoid only partially engages it will arc on the contacts and eventually you will have no contact.
And that connection will change with temperature.
The "S" wire is a fragile weak little piece of wire.
When a wire gets hot, its resistance spikes rapidly.
This is why you see y tube chuckleheads cranking the snot out of a car and then they stick a charger on it.
And all of the sudden holy **** were gonna loose the shop send me some money and buy a ******* hat and a t shirt or a cup of coffee.
Any sloberring crack smoking street wandering car thief knows that if you keep cranking a starter and it slows down it isnt the battery going dead.
Not at first.
That is the windings in the starter overheating and the resistance spiking.
And that is also why every chevrolet since 1956 or so needs a hot start kit.
Every one of these youtube shitheads know that it is the starter wiring.
They all know that the shitheap will not crank.
And they all act all mind blown flat brimmed hat knocked sideways when it turns out to be the starter.
Bullshit.
******* nonsense.
There are only two youtube channels worth watching.
Stay Tuned
And the best one.
Cold War Motors.
 
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You absolutely must have the brace from the front of the starter, to the block when using the old-style, bigass starter. There's at least two different ones, maybe more depending on the starter and the engine.

Last I looked, GM was still selling at least the most-popular of them. The Treasure Yards will have 'em, too.
Small-block w/ 168-tooth flywheel:

Big-block w/ 168-tooth flywheel:

Of course there was a heat shield. Someone took it off, and failed to replace it.
that's crazy I've never seen that in my life ima pull the starter eventually
again for the 55 time
 
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You have heat soak at the s wire and that has caused an arc fualt in the solenoid.
If the solenoid only partially engages it will arc on the contacts and eventually you will have no contact.
And that connection will change with temperature.
The "S" wire is a fragile weak little piece of wire.
When a wire gets hot, its resistance spikes rapidly.
This is why you see y tube chuckleheads cranking the snot out of a car and then they stick a charger on it.
And all of the sudden holy **** were gonna loose the shop send me some money and buy a ******* hat and a t shirt or a cup of coffee.
Any sloberring crack smoking street wandering car thief knows that if you keep cranking a starter and it slows down it isnt the battery going dead.
Not at first.
That is the windings in the starter overheating and the resistance spiking.
And that is also why every chevrolet since 1956 or so needs a hot start kit.
Every one of these youtube shitheads know that it is the starter wiring.
They all know that the shitheap will not crank.
And they all act all mind blown flat brimmed hat knocked sideways when it turns out to be the starter.
Bullshit.
******* nonsense.
There are only two youtube channels worth watching.
Stay Tuned
And the best one.
Cold War Motors.
ur awesome ! I honestly didn't know that explains why the starter was hot as hell. I replaced the one wire with a thicker one.
 
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