Max crank, only gained 1''

[TylerZ281500]

his had 1 tons to begin with. his angles look better than mine with a 6inch lift and no crank.

 

[ShadowRejects]

My angles are nothing... They look just like they did lol pretty pitiful for a full crank. Im pretty pooped on the whole situation. Because im going to have to drop alot of money now for new bars and keys, i was just hoping this was going to be a cheap 40$ block lift.

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[RHamill]

There is a lot of knowledge that needs to be spread in this thread here.

Re-indexed keys plus reefing the torsion key bolts down is NOT a good idea..

Turning them bolts clockwise is turning the keys which are twisting those steel bars called "Torsion bars" twisting them bars is forcing the lower control arms downwards making the front of your truck sit up higher.

Those torsion bars are adjustable so after time you can adjust the stiffness of your front end when the bars fatigue. Also to support snow plows.

But when kids found that out the whole thing with cranking them home to lift your truck gave them a bad name.

Your bars are shot, so don't bottom out your bolts thinking you can lift your truck, you are putting a LOT of stress on them bars, so when you do hit a bump now your bars are going to twist (if there is any possible flex left in them) and REALLY stress them, I have seen them broken (mostly on ford trucks). Find some 3/4 ton bars.

If you plan on doing your own work, READ UP ON TORSION BAR REMOVAL. They are extremely dangerous because of the amount of load they hold, you need a special tool to unload the bars. Also a torch to remove the keys, or an air hammer.

I was able to gain 1.5 inches from 5 full turns per bolt. I still have about a half inch of threads left, if I were to crank them home and drive around, I would have severe angles on my front CVs causing them to prematurely fail, I would have severe angles on my upper and lower ball joints causing them to prematurely fail.

A real suspension lift for the suspension set up we have (Independent front suspension) or IFS, would have drop brackets to drop the front differential down along with drop brackets for upper control arms, so a real lift drops everything down at once so you don't have the severe angles.

 

[TylerZ281500]

yopur sway bar bushings look pretty bad and loose. anyways i dont understand why you do stuff cheap when it always turns out to be more money than you thought and complain about it. not to be rude but you always seem a little over your head when you just need to take a breather and think things through. start with new bars and go from there

 

[ShadowRejects]

I didn't even notice my sway bar links until just now. Thanks for pointing that out. I didn't mean to piss anybody off, i just saw a friend's truck on here with 2'' block and crank and really liked the look... I know what t-bars are, i know what torsion keys are, i know you need a tool to remove them, i know how much pressure theyre under, the whole 9 yards... I don't need any lessons on what they are or anything, not trying to sound rude. I've never had any t-bars wear out, so i don't know the symptoms, but now i do. Ill pick up some new keys and bars late on. Thanks for all the help, ill post some pics of my truck when i put new tires on it.

 

[TylerZ281500]

your keys may still be good unless you destroy them while removing your bars. newer bars is priority if you want lift keys now would be the time but dont go canking them all he way and burying the bolt. id think stock keys cranked a little would be fine on a heavier bar in my opinion