Laredo

[Laredo]

I double checked the movement in the belt tensioner today. It moves approximately 1/8". I haven't set the timing using a scan tool yet, so I suspect it will move even less once the timing is dialed in.

 

[someotherguy]

Since we're on the subject - 184K miles on OEM tensioner and pulley...chucked the belt and destroyed the pulley in a spectacular fashion.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I put new pulleys and belt on it and checked the action. The tensioner was rock steady and within its limits, even with the A/C turned on, so it "seemed" fine. However, the belt was riding towards the rear of the pulley a little bit. NOT fine. I popped the belt off and started to loosen the bolt on the tensioner, and the thing practically fell apart. So back to the parts house for a new Gates tensioner.

In retrospect you can probably tell in the first pic the tensioner arm is riding at an angle, indicating an issue. I think I was a bit too bleary-eyed at the time to notice right away.

I'm not 100% sure but I believe this was the first tow performed by my '94 3500HD wrecker in its first incarnation as a shop truck, other than just moving trucks around at the yard. 120 mile round trip to pick up the '93 I'd built for my then-g/f.

You must be registered for see images attach

Richard

 

[Laredo]

Wow, that idler pulley is toasted!

 

[someotherguy]

Wow, that idler pulley is toasted!

I almost wished I'd been there when it happened so I could hear the event. I have an idea what it sounded like, but ya know, first-hand experience is always more exciting.

Richard

 

[Erik the Awful]

Yup, I've learned the hard way that any time you have the belt off, check all the pulleys for smoothness, wobbling, looseness, or stiffness. Tensioners and idlers are as much a maintenance item as the belt itself.

 

[Laredo]

This weekend was spent redoing more work.

First, I replaced the transfer case output shaft seal because the weep hole was at 12:00.

Second, I replaced the brake line that runs the length of the driver side frame rail. The prior line was still leaking at the fittings at the firewall and the fuel tank. This time I installed the union fittings---to the extent possible without connecting the line segments---prior to installation. This allowed me to crank down on the union fittings with all my strength and limited the number of connections that I had to tighten on the truck---very helpful.

Third, I bled the brakes. Despite installing the line segments as described above, I still had a few minor leaks (last time the leaks were substantial). Fortunately, I was able to easily loosen and tighten the leaking fittings because I did not secure the brake line to the frame rail. The brakes bled beautifully, and when I last checked, all the fittings remained dry.

Next, I'll be repainting/installing the bolts that secure the brake line to the frame rail and finalizing the tie rod assemblies (the ends of the inner joints just barely touch the frame near where the anti-sway bar mounts, so I need to shorten the ends).