Deciphering Live Data.

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Schurkey

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Yeah the egr solenoid vac line feeds both that and the smog pump air diverter valve. I deleted the smog pump so i need to get a single vac line since the double makes me uneasy, waayyy too many joints for my liking.
Is the vacuum hose that used to go to the AIR Diverter valve, plugged? If not, the EGR isn't working properly.
 

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XLPE insulation?
Cross-Linked PolyEthelyne?

Thought Telflon would be king . Apparently not....
Teflon (PTFE) IS king...but I'm guessing it's even more expensive than XLPE.

I have a big ol' spool of 12-gauge, silver-plated copper wire with Teflon insulation that's gonna become speaker wire (including inside the cabinet) someday.
 

scott2093

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I have a big ol' spool of 12-gauge, silver-plated copper wire with Teflon insulation that's gonna become speaker wire
I was shocked at the difference even larger awg makes on a 30ft speaker wire run for I guess larger speakers. Maybe damping factor of the particular amp or something but it was surprisingly obvious... It's always strange to me because everything is obviously smaller once inside the speakers ....
Still having a shorter speaker wire run with signal closest to amp even if signal wire is 30ft seems to win imo..
But it's been a while since I remember dedicating a portion of my compulsiveness to that....
 

Schurkey

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I was shocked at the difference even larger awg makes on a 30ft speaker wire run
Speaker wire gauge is related to speaker impedance, and volume level. Volume level is related to room size and speaker efficiency.

Worst case is a low-impedance, inefficient speaker in a big room. That draws more amperage, requiring the largest-gauge speaker cable.

Ideally, you'd have the amplifier inside or directly behind the speaker, so you'd need < 1 foot of speaker wire. Less length is always better.
 

Nick88

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Is the vacuum hose that used to go to the AIR Diverter valve, plugged? If not, the EGR isn't working properly.
No. Would that become a problem? its always been hooked to the air diverter from the factory could it be constantly pulling vacuum because there is no smog pump anymore???
 

Nick88

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So I have a question. Can anyone think of a reason after its been sitting (even on a HOT day) when I start the truck it misfires for about 30 secs to a minute in varying amounts. Also if I put it in drive for up to a few minutes after starting it misfires pretty bad and the truck reaks like gas( probably from mis). The CTS and wire for it are new. Any ideas I think that might be part of my issue.
 

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No. Would that become a problem? its always been hooked to the air diverter from the factory could it be constantly pulling vacuum because there is no smog pump anymore???
If it's still connected to the diverter valve, it's plugged...by the diverter valve.

I figured the AIR pump was gone, so was the diverter, and the hose was hanging loose and sucking air.
 

Nick88

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If it's still connected to the diverter valve, it's plugged...by the diverter valve.

I figured the AIR pump was gone, so was the diverter, and the hose was hanging loose and sucking air.
Oh no I never took out the diverter because I couldnt figure out a good way to plug it without causing a leak. Do you know any reason the truck would misfire when not running for a while then clear out when warming up.
 

Nick88

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Hey can someone chime in. I just tested my coil according to the picture online with the coil and 3 tests. The test 2- the resistance of the front two connectors on round side of coil connectors is reading 2.5 ohms. Online its supposed to be .1-.4.... I tested an old accel and it was also around 2.3ish ohms. Are both coils shot or is it a typo and its supposed to be 1-4 ohms???
 
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