Core support interchange

[someotherguy]

I don't think that's true of all years. My 95 has a series of hooks that latch the bumper filler to the core support, and 7mm screws to hold it in place. I suppose you could attach the grille to the filler strip without attaching it to the core support, but then the grille would float freely, held on by just 4 screws across the top.

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This is a picture of the screws and hook tab I was talking about.

Correct, this is the style beginning with the 1994 redesign.

Richard

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Just a heads up for any one that is going to change your core support from a donor truck. THEY ARE ALL NOT THE SAME! They all have the same dimensions and will fit BUT check the opening for the air flow to the radiator.
The core for my '98 Suburban had a 37" opening and the one that I swapped from the donor truck ('90 4.3) was about 9"(?) smaller width wise,and the early core does not have all of the neccessary hole punched for the accessories that the later model truck.
I modified the early core to match the late core and it only took a few hours of measuring, marking, drilling and painting and it looks like it will work out. I just want to save anyone that might have to do this swap in the future the head ache of all the extra monkeying around. My suggestion is to stay within model changes, TBI vs Vortec and 8 cylinder vs 6 cylinder.

 

[Supercharged111]

Just a heads up for any one that is going to change your core support from a donor truck. THEY ARE ALL NOT THE SAME! They all have the same dimensions and will fit BUT check the opening for the air flow to the radiator.
The core for my '98 Suburban had a 37" opening and the one that I swapped from the donor truck ('90 4.3) was about 9"(?) smaller width wise,and the early core does not have all of the neccessary hole punched for the accessories that the later model truck.
I modified the early core to match the late core and it only took a few hours of measuring, marking, drilling and painting and it looks like it will work out. I just want to save anyone that might have to do this swap in the future the head ache of all the extra monkeying around. My suggestion is to stay within model changes, TBI vs Vortec and 8 cylinder vs 6 cylinder.

Makes a guy wonder if the 28" radiator had a smaller hole punched than the 34"? Either one could be had with a V8. Or what about the 2500 trucks with their taller 19" cores vs the 17" tall units the other trucks got?

 

[someotherguy]

Even some of the early V8 trucks had the narrow radiator, not just the 4.3 V6 stuff. There really are a lot of variations in these trucks over the years; they do have an amazing amount of compatibility but very far from some folks idea of "fits every year"

Richard

 

[JSchuman]

Is it possible to replace the core support without removing fenderliners/fenders, bumper and draining the rad? And how much time is it in it?

 

[someotherguy]

Is it possible to replace the core support without removing fenderliners/fenders, bumper and draining the rad? And how much time is it in it?

Yes on all of those questions, except "not really" on the radiator. It sits in rubber isolators at the bottom of the core support, and while you could possibly wiggle the core support out from under the radiator, it's going to be a fight, as the radiator won't be easy to maneuver with the hoses, transmission and oil cooler lines fighting you, etc. It's pretty close to the fan clutch and blades and very easy to damage the radiator core if you hit those.

You'll be evacuating the A/C system (if equipped) because the lines go through the core support to the condenser. If you have an auxiliary power steering cooler, same scenario.

How much time depends on your skill level and also if any of the fasteners are rusty. Even on trucks without rust, the bolts that go through the bottom front of the inner fenders to the core support are often rusty because that area collects debris - they screw into weld nuts that are in the bottom channel of the core support.

So, why not just go ahead and drain the radiator and get it out of your way?

Richard

 

[JSchuman]

Will be doing the jobb on the parkinglot outside the appartmentbiulding, so i dont want to add more stepps than needed. Would rather remove fancluth and fan than the rad.

 

[someotherguy]

Will be doing the jobb on the parkinglot outside the appartmentbiulding, so i dont want to add more stepps than needed. Would rather remove fancluth and fan than the rad.

Understandable.

But yeah, other than the aforementioned items..

This pic is actually an engine/transmission install, I wouldn't have bothered with pulling the bumper but it was damaged and needed replacement anyway. Front end of truck was crunched - hood, bumper, core support, grille - so I combined that job with the engine job.

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Core support swap on a minor front end crunch 3500HD - bumper was fine so it didn't need replacement; left it in place. Even left the battery tray in place.

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Richard