'98 5.7L P0157 sensor or actually lean?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

big bird

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Messages
54
Reaction score
126
Location
Pennsylvania
Still getting a P0157 after getting gas in the front tank. It seems to throw the code after heavy driving, it isn't throwing any other codes. I would think if it were actually lean, it would throw more than just that code.

I have ordered a fuel pump, injectors, and both downstream sensors.

I'm thinking/hoping that it is the sensor or the fuel pump is weak at high volumes. I'm going to change the sensor and put a pressure gauge on it and take it for a hard drive. Got 38 psi on the prime cycle when I tested the other day on the side of the interstate.

If it's the injectors, given how involved fixing it would be, I'm considering trying not to drive too hard and just running it. Don't have the time right now. I need it to make it 2100-3500 miles. Reducing the life of the engine is acceptable.

Am I barking up the right tree?

Advice greatly appreciated!
 

BeXtreme

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 13, 2020
Messages
423
Reaction score
436
Location
Salem, OR
Still getting a P0157 after getting gas in the front tank. It seems to throw the code after heavy driving, it isn't throwing any other codes. I would think if it were actually lean, it would throw more than just that code.

I have ordered a fuel pump, injectors, and both downstream sensors.

I'm thinking/hoping that it is the sensor or the fuel pump is weak at high volumes. I'm going to change the sensor and put a pressure gauge on it and take it for a hard drive. Got 38 psi on the prime cycle when I tested the other day on the side of the interstate.

If it's the injectors, given how involved fixing it would be, I'm considering trying not to drive too hard and just running it. Don't have the time right now. I need it to make it 2100-3500 miles. Reducing the life of the engine is acceptable.

Am I barking up the right tree?

Advice greatly appreciated!
That code is a post catalytic converter code. It's for the B2S2 low voltage, which means your passenger side post cat sensor is either reading straight atmosphere from a big exhaust leak after the pre-cat sensor or you have a problem in the wiring. I got that on my newer suburban after I put long tube headers on with high flow cats and had missed a large section of weld around the new O2 sensor bung. It was basically allowing ambient air to get right at the O2 sensor, so it was always reading full lean. I would be looking hard for an exhaust leak right near the rear 02 sensor or a damaged wire.
 

big bird

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Messages
54
Reaction score
126
Location
Pennsylvania
I glanced at the wires to the sensors the other day, not a deep inspection and I didn't throw a multimeter on it. It looked okay.

There's a lot of rust on the truck. That makes a lot of sense that it could be a leak. Would be awesome if it was, exhaust tape for the win! (weld it later)

Thanks for the advice!
 

Road Trip

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2023
Messages
1,401
Reaction score
3,989
Location
Syracuse, NY
Still getting a P0157 after getting gas in the front tank. It seems to throw the code after heavy driving, it isn't throwing any other codes. I would think if it were actually lean, it would throw more than just that code.

I have ordered a fuel pump, injectors, and both downstream sensors.

I'm thinking/hoping that it is the sensor or the fuel pump is weak at high volumes. I'm going to change the sensor and put a pressure gauge on it and take it for a hard drive. Got 38 psi on the prime cycle when I tested the other day on the side of the interstate.

If it's the injectors, given how involved fixing it would be, I'm considering trying not to drive too hard and just running it. Don't have the time right now. I need it to make it 2100-3500 miles. Reducing the life of the engine is acceptable.

Am I barking up the right tree?

Advice greatly appreciated!

Hello big bird,

Short answer:

1) Front O2 (upstream) sensors key part of Closed Loop A/F operation, fix sooner than later.

2) Rear O2 (downstream) sensors monitor performance of cats, do not affect overall engine tune
in the GMT400 series, will not affect overall health of motor if you are forced to defer maintenance.

****

If you have no other reason compelling you to replace your injectors at this time (other DTCs, driveability issues, misfires, etc)
...if this was my truck I wouldn't swap out the injectors. And as for the visual inspection you just did, it's possible that
you have corroded connections inside the connectors/corroded wiring causing a marginal electrical path back to the
downstream O2 sensor that the computer is flagging for a low voltage reading. (Or exhaust leak where excess oxygen is getting
into the airstream as noted above.)

There are many other failures where you find yourself urging another to not delay repair...but in this case,
you can let this be. Heck, I'd put a new transfer pump between the primary & secondary fuel tanks ahead
of this downstream O2 sensor. Or getting that front tank to take on fuel at a normal delivery rate. YMMV.

Wishing you continued success bringing this truck back to reliable DD status.

Cheers --
 

big bird

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Messages
54
Reaction score
126
Location
Pennsylvania
Road Trip,

According to 1998_K1500_Sub in the previous thread:

"Here's what the 1998 FSM says about P0157; see the attached .pdf.

It says the system goes open loop when the code is set.

It also talks about checking the LT trims... "If the conditions for DTC P0157 exist, the L.T. fuel trim values will be around 158 or greater.""

I thought that open loop means that it does affect performance?

It feels more sluggish when the code is live, but that is subjective. I don't have good instincts on this truck yet, haven't driven it long enough. Also have a tendency to be bothered by check engine lights so it may be causing me to feel like the truck has less power.
 

big bird

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Messages
54
Reaction score
126
Location
Pennsylvania
Couldn't find a hole above the downstream sensor. Gasket between the header and the cat doesn't look great. Will put tape around it and see if that does the trick as I'll already be down there working on gas tank. Haven't messed with the wiring.
 

Road Trip

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2023
Messages
1,401
Reaction score
3,989
Location
Syracuse, NY
Road Trip,

According to 1998_K1500_Sub in the previous thread:

"Here's what the 1998 FSM says about P0157; see the attached .pdf.

It says the system goes open loop when the code is set.

It also talks about checking the LT trims... "If the conditions for DTC P0157 exist, the L.T. fuel trim values will be around 158 or greater.""

I thought that open loop means that it does affect performance?

Excellent question. And I stand corrected, for forcing the engine out of the most accurate mode
(Closed Loop) back to the factory settings with zero local fine tuning (Open Loop) *can* lead to the
same or worse efficiency & emissions. But I'd like to explain why I wrote what I did in reply #4 above.

When it comes to these computer-controlled engines, there are specific modes of operation. And depending
upon what goes right vs what goes wrong, we can have engines that run well during warm up, and then suddenly
run much worse once they are fully warmed up. Conversely, we can have engines run rough & misbehave
when cold, but suddenly start driving fine when warmed up. And of course, run poorly hot & cold. And the
highly desirable runs well hot or cold.

Here are a few rules of thumb that can help with troubleshooting drivability issues:

* With a stock/unmodified engine in factory-fresh mechanical condition, with the matching
computer it will run from very well to *excellent* on the stock fueling & timing tables in the computer even
without any local feedback. (aka: Open Loop)

Q: If this is the case, then why all the hoopla over Closed Loop operation?

A: As the miles accumulate on the odometer, the physical state of the engine + the injectors +
all the sensors all start to drift further and further away from that initial factory-fresh condition.

Which also means that the efficiency & performance will drop while at the same time emissions
will climb. But by adding the O2 sensors to the exhaust and using them to incorporate a feedback
loop, this gives the engineers the ability to constantly measure how close to the ideal we got, and then
use this info to compensate for this drift & fine tune the A/F ratios in real time. (ie: successfully drive
the O2 sensor(s) back and forth across the stoich voltage value >8 times per second.)**

That's the theory that they were following when they designed/build your engine. And when it
works, it works great. But when it doesn't work, as a troubleshooter we are trying to figure out
what we are dealing with:

I) (Ideal) Engine runs as designed. Cold start in Open Loop w/good driveability & minimal emissions.
When engine coolant and O2 sensors cross the temp thresholds, system goes into Closed Loop,
imperceptibly to the driver, and engine delivers excellent drivaility, best mileage, and lowest emissions.
NOTE: When driven at/near WOT, a healthy engine/computer combo stops chasing Stoichiometric
A/F ratios, intentionally falls out of Closed Loop operation, and runs off of the factory table values
for the duration of the heavy throttle/high power demands by the human. And once the driver
eases off the gas, the engine will revert to Closed Loop (stoich) operation.

II) Engine/sensor parts have drifted, adversely affecting Cold engine operation. However, once the engine
warms up and goes Closed Loop, engine begins driving normally. If engine is forced to go Open Loop,
poor drivability returns. DTC will be kicked once the resulting emissions levels are calculated to exceed
150% of the calibration. (Diagnosis: Worn engine components being compensated for by a healthy
Closed Loop system.)

III) Engine runs good during cold operation. (Open Loop) However, once the engine warms up and
goes Closed Loop, misfiring, rough operation and/or poor driveability commences. If the engine
is forced into Open Loop operation, the engine starts running well again. (Diagnosis: Good engine
adversely affected by worn out Closed Loop components. {O2 sensors, cats} )

IV) Engine runs poorly cold or hot. Going Closed Loop may even exacerbate the condition. (Diagnosis:
There is a mechanical issue with the engine, fuel delivery, or ignition system preventing proper engine
operation...no different than in the old pre-computer days. The computer can't compensate for
burned exhaust valves, a camshaft missing one or more lobes, stuck injector, or bad rotor, cap, or
spark plug wire. (Hopefully identify the misfiring cylinder(s), but not compensate for the problem.)

****

I apologize for the length of the above, but in my humble opinion the fact that our computer-controlled
engine bays have these 4 different modes of behavior is the reason why so many problems in the middle
of the range that can be tuned around will present as if they are 'intermittent'. And also why so many
parts can be thrown at the engine bay and yet the desired fix remains elusive.

I believe that when this new feedback loop mode was being introduced to the truck world with the GMT400, the
technical support organization was worried enough about the local feedback loop clouding up the troubleshooting
that they went to the trouble of adding the "Field Service" mode into the TBI computer, so that a Regional Level
Troubleshooter could monitor Closed Loop operation via the SES light while troubleshooting a customer's
'can't be fixed' driveability complaint. (!)

So with all of the above setting the context, my comment about the upstream O2 sensors having the power to
negatively distort the Closed Loop operation (Scenario III) is always top of mind. And that for the GMT400 family,
the downstream O2 sensors do not have that same influence on the Closed Loop operation. This is still true.

But when you pointed out that the rear (downstream) O2 sensor(s) can fail that DTC and this throws the
computer into Open Loop operation is also a direct effect, by eliminating Closed Loop operation entirely. (!)

So let's use some of the theory above to troubleshoot that DTC P0157.

* Let's say that some crusty wiring is not accurately coupling the B2S2 oxygen sensor
output back to the computer. The voltage is too low as a result. The test fails, a DTC P0157 is kicked, but the
engine continues to run well, the spark plugs are coloring correctly, so the SES light is on but the engine bay is happy.
(Diagnosis: Good engine, with a problem solely with the feedback loop.)

* You fix the O2 wiring back to new condition. Now *both* downstream O2 sensors are in agreement. SES light remains out,
life is good. Or possibly SES light comes on, and *both* O2 sensors are complaining. This is when you should focus
on finding the root cause that is causing a global failure across both banks. (Diagnosis: Out of tolerance component
in fuel delivery subsystem affecting both engine banks.)

Note: When your engine was running lean due to the empty primary tank (fuel gauge non-zero due to secondary tank malfunction)
resulting in a truly too-lean condition, in the perfect world *both* left and right downstream sensors should have been
complaining. Actually, I would have expected the upstream sensors to have kicked DTCs also?)


It feels more sluggish when the code is live, but that is subjective. I don't have good instincts on this truck yet, haven't driven it long enough. Also have a tendency to be bothered by check engine lights so it may be causing me to feel like the truck has less power.

This could very well be. For example, the factory tables were calibrated for the fuel being sold at the time,
which was 100% gasoline, 0% ethanol. With 10% ethanol adopted years later, there will be a minor adjustment
in the LTFTs (Long Term Fuel Trims) ...which helps to explain why you rarely if ever see a perfect +/- 0% trim value.

And of course if there is any component in your engine bay that has drifted from the value when it was
originally manufactured/passed QA checks, then when not compensated for during Open Loop operation, can
lead to a difference in engine behavior that a detail-oriented driver may be able to discern.

****

To recap, an engine/computer combo can be in any of the following Modes of Operation:

* Healthy engine Open Loop + real time optimization via local, healthy Closed Loop system.
* Healthy engine Open Loop misadjusted by broken Closed Loop system.
* Engine with drifted/worn parts causing bad Open Loop misbehavior, but successfully compensated for by Closed Loop. (Successfully anticipated by design engineers.)
* Engine too far gone, bad Open Loop *and* bad/worse Closed Loop behavior.

This is a lot of theory just for crusty wires or tired O2 sensors, but I was trying to figure out why
you didn't get too lean O2 DTCs for both banks? Which made me wonder if a marginal wiring path
was the real cause of the 'too low voltage' on the B2S2 sensor?

Enough for now. Let us know what you discover. But you aren't going to hurt your engine by
running it Open Loop until you can get a chance to take a closer look at all this stuff.

Hope this explanation was helpful.

Best of luck --

**There's been some question about how fast healthy O2 sensors can be driven by the computer
to cross/recross the 450 millivolt (stoich) voltage. Drive leaner (cross) now drive richer (cross)
and repeat. According to the FSM, if it takes more than 125 milliseconds on average (8 Hz, 8 times per second)
then supposedly a P0133 "Slow Response" (Bank 1 Sensor 1) and/or P0153 "Slow Response" (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
DTCs will be kicked. (See attached.)
 

Attachments

  • '99 DTC P0133 O2 slow response (p 1) -- 99 Chevrolet & GMC CK Truck SM - Vol. 1 & 2.jpg
    '99 DTC P0133 O2 slow response (p 1) -- 99 Chevrolet & GMC CK Truck SM - Vol. 1 & 2.jpg
    128.8 KB · Views: 13
  • '99 DTC P0133 O2 slow response (p 2) -- 99 Chevrolet & GMC CK Truck SM - Vol. 1 & 2.jpg
    '99 DTC P0133 O2 slow response (p 2) -- 99 Chevrolet & GMC CK Truck SM - Vol. 1 & 2.jpg
    169.4 KB · Views: 13
Last edited:

big bird

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Messages
54
Reaction score
126
Location
Pennsylvania
Thank you for the very thorough answer. It is greatly appreciated. I understand most all of it.

I think it's safe to assume that components have drifted and I would be better off running closed loop if it isn't too much trouble to find/fix the problem. Main priority remains fixing the gas fill issue.

Before I covered myself in gas this evening, I took a look at the wiring, just familiarizing myself with the harness. I can already see that someone has been in there. There is a loop of the harness running under the transmission that looks like it should actually run over it. I'm assuming that this from when the engine was swapped.

Nothing obvious but I didn't pull any wire out of the loom or check any connections. There is one connector that isn't connected but it has been that way a long time.

My next step will be cleaning connectors, putting exhaust tape around that dodgy looking cat gasket, and maybe figuring out what that loose connector is.

As to the question of that sensor being able to quickly cross, the CEL is coming on during heavy acceleration, 4000 RPM uphill in fourth. I would think that would get some quick variations in lean/rich. The code is present before the light comes on, we had the OBD2 reader plugged in after we got going to monitor it. This is pushing the engine real hard, but if she'll do it, makes my life easier on a 700 mile interstate trip.

Think I should change out the sensors or leave them alone?
 

big bird

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Messages
54
Reaction score
126
Location
Pennsylvania
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

0xDEADBEEF

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 3, 2021
Messages
2,836
Reaction score
7,139
Location
127.0.0.1
Is that some kind of super high heat resistant exhaust tape, because it looks like electrical tape that's going just to burn off in 5 minutes (assuming it actually stopped the leak).
 
Top