1996 Chevy C 1500 vortec 5.7 Rotor and Hub question

[Schurkey]

Well I found a rear axle - "1997 GM 14 bolt complete six lug axle with 3.42 gears and open diff" that a guy is selling local for $200 Its already off the truck but unsure of which model it came from. I'm guessing is a GU6 rpo code and most likely G80 too. He did say it was a 4x2 work truck so I'm thinking the width should be the same as mine [1996 C1500 silverado]
Any suggestions?

If it's an "open" differential, it won't be a G80.

Make sure you can loosen the axle fill plug!

If it's from a 2WD pickup, it should be a direct bolt-in for yours, except for needing the conversion U-joint, and maybe polishing some rust off the yoke where it slides into the trans tailhousing. The driveshaft will poke into the tailhousing just a little deeper than with the 10-bolt.

Install new/working park brake cables into the struts and backing plates. Seems to me the cables are the same for 10-bolt and 14-bolt 6-lug axles, so whichever cables are in the best condition are the ones you use--or buy new ones.

I would pop the cover off, verify gear ratio. Should be stamped into the OD of the ring gear--the number of pinion teeth and the number of ring gear teeth. This photo shows a similar 9.5" ring gear with "11 (pinion teeth) 41 (ring gear teeth) " = 41 / 11 = 3.73 gear ratio

You must be registered for see images attach

Verify the brake hydraulic tubing and brake hose is good, pull the drums and inspect the brakes. Repair as needed. Get the regular (service) brakes adjusted FIRST, then adjust the park brake after the axle is installed. When it was me, I pulled the axle shafts out, verified the bearing surfaces on the axle shafts, and smacked new grease seals into the housing. Then fresh grease in the rear end, a gasket for the cover as required, and tighten the bolts. There's going to be some sort of axle vent; on the 4WD it's at the end of a hose that's bolted to the box or frame-rail. I don't know if the 2WD have that hose, or if the vent is right on the axle housing. Make sure the vent is clear.

If you intend to cram some sort of "posi" or "locker" differential case into that axle, now is the time, since you've got the cover off and the axle shafts out anyway. Don't disturb the pinion gear, (unless absolutely necessary) re-use the ring gear AFTER CHECKING BACKLASH BEFORE DISASSEMBLY. Put the thing together with proper bearing preload, and the exact same backlash. If you dick with the pinion, things get way more complex.

Then shove the whole works under the truck, clamp it to the springs with fresh U-bolts, torque to spec.

 

[OBS Oregon]

If it's an "open" differential, it won't be a G80.

Make sure you can loosen the axle fill plug!

If it's from a 2WD pickup, it should be a direct bolt-in for yours, except for needing the conversion U-joint, and maybe polishing some rust off the yoke where it slides into the trans tailhousing. The driveshaft will poke into the tailhousing just a little deeper than with the 10-bolt.

Install new/working park brake cables into the struts and backing plates. Seems to me the cables are the same for 10-bolt and 14-bolt 6-lug axles, so whichever cables are in the best condition are the ones you use--or buy new ones.

I would pop the cover off, verify gear ratio. Should be stamped into the OD of the ring gear--the number of pinion teeth and the number of ring gear teeth. This photo shows a similar 9.5" ring gear with "11 (pinion teeth) 41 (ring gear teeth) " = 41 / 11 = 3.73 gear ratio

You must be registered for see images attach

Verify the brake hydraulic tubing and brake hose is good, pull the drums and inspect the brakes. Repair as needed. Get the regular (service) brakes adjusted FIRST, then adjust the park brake after the axle is installed. When it was me, I pulled the axle shafts out, verified the bearing surfaces on the axle shafts, and smacked new grease seals into the housing. Then fresh grease in the rear end, a gasket for the cover as required, and tighten the bolts. There's going to be some sort of axle vent; on the 4WD it's at the end of a hose that's bolted to the box or frame-rail. I don't know if the 2WD have that hose, or if the vent is right on the axle housing. Make sure the vent is clear.

If you intend to cram some sort of "posi" or "locker" differential case into that axle, now is the time, since you've got the cover off and the axle shafts out anyway. Don't disturb the pinion gear, (unless absolutely necessary) re-use the ring gear AFTER CHECKING BACKLASH BEFORE DISASSEMBLY. Put the thing together with proper bearing preload, and the exact same backlash. If you dick with the pinion, things get way more complex.

Then shove the whole works under the truck, clamp it to the springs with fresh U-bolts, torque to spec.

Thank you for your assistance... good information.

 

[AmericanPatriot100]

How did this turn out? I’m heading the same direction. With swapping the 10b for the 14b. I have 97 ECSB 2wd with the 10b not sure if 8.2 or 8.5. I do have the HD brakes and tow package. Not that that matters much since I’ll be swapping the axles. I’m probably going to do the disc conversion all around since I want the front wheels to match the rear wheels and since I’ll have it out of the truck until it’s built might as well convert the rear drums to disc unless that a pain. But after some digging haven’t found a 14b sf yet. I was about to search for one in the classifieds and came across this thread and got side tracked. It was a good read and am curious how this turned out.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I have 97 ECSB 2wd with the 10b not sure if 8.2 or 8.5. I do have the HD brakes and tow package.

I assume it's a C1500 if it's got the 8.5"

What's your RPO code for the brakes, "JB6"?

I’m probably going to do the disc conversion all around since I want the front wheels to match the rear wheels

What do you mean by "all around"?

If you're putting discs in the back...

- don't get a cheap conversion kit; the cheap ones are a poor design. Expect to spend >$1000.

- make sure it's got adequate braking capacity to match or exceed that of your current brakes.

- you'll be best off to install the NBS MC, because it's got the larger reservoir necessary for the rear discs, and

- any swap to the NBS MC practically requires a front brake caliper swap to a JB7 caliper (available with either 80mm or 86mm pistons); this swap is discussed often on GMT400

There's plenty of discussion about the disc kits here on GMT400, e.g., for starters,

JB6 to JB7 brake upgrade

Presumably you’re using the OE 1” cylinders. See my prior post in this thread: Post in thread 'JB6 to JB7 brake upgrade' https://www.gmt400.com/threads/jb6-to-jb7-brake-upgrade.58607/post-1248959 I glossed right over that. I'd figured the bigger ones were a different dimension, that's pretty...

www.gmt400.com

I would suggest you keep the 9.5" 11" drums, install the larger 1.1875" cylinder on the drum brakes if you want an "upgrade", and powdercoat the drums silver so they look sorta like disc brakes (i.e., to match your fronts, which you mentioned).

By the way, the 9.5" 11" drums have much more braking capacity than the 8.5" drums, see

Semi float rear end

It came from a 4x4 I did check that. Iv called a few places about changing out the gears in it. One shop told me $400+ parts (they also did my transmission a year or two ago) one shop said they might have a ring and pinion new in the box that he would sell me for 1/2 price if it’s what I need...

www.gmt400.com

I ... came across this thread and got side tracked. It was a good read and am curious how this turned out.

It's a common swap, the 9.5" for the 8.5". I'm in the process of swapping mine, now.

When you're shopping for a 9.5" be sure to get one from a 2x4 donor so that it matches your truck; the 4x4 rear ends are wider.

Too, at least on the 4x4 rears (and I suspect the 2x4), the spring perches aren't as "tall" and will lower the rear of the truck by ~0.5". See...

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/semi-float-rear-end.44534/post-1437200

Here's a picture of my 9.5”; I've got the rear sway bar brackets tacked in place. Once they’re welded, I’ll paint the rear end and sway bar satin black.

See https://www.gmt400.com/threads/4dr-tahoe-rear-sway-bar-on-2-door.68901/post-1436716