Truck is eating slaves like crazy

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Yamal

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Got a 95 k1500 that’s had some large bits changes out.
Got it with a 5.7 that wasn’t original and an nv4500 that definitely wasn’t original. Blew the clutch line during normal driving and ended up finding bigger problems.

Brand new parts list: flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, clutch fork, clutch fork pin, master cylinder, clutch line(braided now) and slave. This is the second time I’ve thrown a slave in this system. It’s been bled. Promise. By me and then vacuum bled by a reputable shop.

The reason I suspected the slave needed replacing after doing the entire rest of the system is because of a small leak and progressive decline into no clutch actuation. Chevy manual says any less that one inch of movement on slave shaft is cause for replacement or bleeding, the new slave went further, which the manual says is acceptable.

My issue is that this second slave cylinder has only lasted TWO days. Can’t get it into first, if I pump the clutch pedal I can pop it in and the vehicle will chug forward a bit. When it left the shop on Monday it had no problems with the service manual test for a dragging clutch. (9 seconds after pressing clutch pedal there should be no resistance going into gear) Now two days later, I can’t put it in first unless the truck is off or I’m rolling up to a stop and essentially rev matching on decel.

What am I looking at? Should I bleed again? Do I assume that air is getting into the system another way? Am I overloading the slave with a different unknown issue? Do I scrap the truck?

Please help, I feel like I’ve encountered something nobody’s seen before. Prove me wrong, I’m begging you.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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What master are you using? Is the slave leaking?

I popped my slave when I was using a master with a much larger bore and no travel limiter.
 

Yamal

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I mean that’s a solution I really like because it doesn’t cost me anything. But why did it drive fine immediately after installing the newest one and now after a few days does not?
 

Hipster

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Got a 95 k1500 that’s had some large bits changes out.
Got it with a 5.7 that wasn’t original and an nv4500 that definitely wasn’t original. Blew the clutch line during normal driving and ended up finding bigger problems.

Brand new parts list: flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, clutch fork, clutch fork pin, master cylinder, clutch line(braided now) and slave. This is the second time I’ve thrown a slave in this system. It’s been bled. Promise. By me and then vacuum bled by a reputable shop.

The reason I suspected the slave needed replacing after doing the entire rest of the system is because of a small leak and progressive decline into no clutch actuation. Chevy manual says any less that one inch of movement on slave shaft is cause for replacement or bleeding, the new slave went further, which the manual says is acceptable.

My issue is that this second slave cylinder has only lasted TWO days. Can’t get it into first, if I pump the clutch pedal I can pop it in and the vehicle will chug forward a bit. When it left the shop on Monday it had no problems with the service manual test for a dragging clutch. (9 seconds after pressing clutch pedal there should be no resistance going into gear) Now two days later, I can’t put it in first unless the truck is off or I’m rolling up to a stop and essentially rev matching on decel.

What am I looking at? Should I bleed again? Do I assume that air is getting into the system another way? Am I overloading the slave with a different unknown issue? Do I scrap the truck?

Please help, I feel like I’ve encountered something nobody’s seen before. Prove me wrong, I’m begging you.
There's a rash of junk ass slave cylinders out there. been through this with a Ranger. Ended up getting 3rd slave/throw out bearing combo from dealer And it was fine after that.
 

Hipster

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I mean that’s a solution I really like because it doesn’t cost me anything. But why did it drive fine immediately after installing the newest one and now after a few days does not?
If it's not moving fluid it's not going to be able to be bled. We live in an age where new doesn't mean it's good.
 

someotherguy

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When I popped the plastic slave cylinder on my NV4500 I replaced the master and slave with the aluminum ones from Perfection Clutch. They're not perfect.. but I've got a bit more faith in them.

For the bleeding did you try removing the slave from the bellhousing, leave the cap off the master cylinder, and manually compress the slave cylinder pushrod? Do it full stroke, slowly, release, slowly, one time. Then, quicker, short strokes, ten times. (Pretty sure that was the specific instruction with the parts.) Have a helper keep an eye on the reservoir and top it up if it gets low. Watch for bubbles. A few rounds of this should get it bled effectively.

2 quick videos of me bleeding mine - didn't have a helper so I positioned my old d-cam on a tripod just above the master cylinder.

Round 1, still a few bubbles first time through
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Round 2, a few bubbles at first but just clean fluid movement after
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Richard
 
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Yamal

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The bottom up bleed by disconnecting the space from the bellhousing is the method I used, vacuum bleeding from the other shop. I guess I’ll give that a go again and see if maybe a bubble was trapped somewhere and worked its way to a more inconvenient place that actually affects the clutch. If all else fails I’ll maybe try a third one??? Let’s hope not
 
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