power steering pump whine issues

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kylenautique

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So I did some research, evidently the gmt400 quick take up master cylinder is designed to be used with rear drum and as such incorporates the function of a residual pressure valve into it. Have you considered using a Gmt800 master cylinder (from the rear disc ones, not the later rear drum ones)

THe pedal feel may improve and it may also help your situation. I guess I could see maybe a sticky piston is somehow contributing to your whine but I doubt it. But consider this suggestion as an offshoot of your whine issue and just based on my preliminary searching.

And did you mean single piston rear gmt800 rear calipers, not 400?
I didnt know the escalade or denali got two piston rears. Is this only in the half tons or does it apply to the 3/4 tons?
Cables worked directly with your parking brake pedal and routed nicely? Nice.

Do you by chance have a dial indicator?
I tried the NBS MC swap. It doesn't work with JB6 stock brakes. The pedal almost goes to the floor. With the Hydroboost, I'd have to see if the NBS hydroboost MC works, but honestly, the brake performance has been stellar with the stock hydroboost and master cylinder. I deleted the ABS anyways because the unit failed, so running an adjustable proportioning valve was the simple solution for the rear brakes.
 

AuroraGirl

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I tried the NBS MC swap. It doesn't work with JB6 stock brakes. The pedal almost goes to the floor. With the Hydroboost, I'd have to see if the NBS hydroboost MC works, but honestly, the brake performance has been stellar with the stock hydroboost and master cylinder. I deleted the ABS anyways because the unit failed, so running an adjustable proportioning valve was the simple solution for the rear brakes
Do you know what pressure is running to the rear? It seems the rear anti lock managed the rear pressure so as not to cross into lockup but allow maximum braking it could handle
 

kylenautique

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Do you know what pressure is running to the rear? It seems the rear anti lock managed the rear pressure so as not to cross into lockup but allow maximum braking it could handle
The valve regulates the pressure to a max of 1200psi, and generally you want around 1000 for disc brakes. Drums around 5-600psi. There are others that allow for a higher pressure than 1200, but that pressure works great. It I really really slam on it at I can lock up the rear brakes. It feels perfectly safe the way its dialed.
 

kylenautique

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How 'bout the holdoff valve, and the safety switch?
The main proportioning valve on the ABS unit failed. It was kinda scary. Something would get stuck in the valve, leaving me with a firm pedal and hardly any brakes. If I stopped the truck, restarted it, slammed on the brakes a ton, it would eventually start working. And because there are no new replacement parts available, and the ABS bleeding process is impossible without a snap-on scan tool, it made the most sense to remove the unit. I lost all trust in the ABS system. The ABS part of the unit worked, but something failed in the valving part. All the wiring is intact. I took the whole unit out, and removed the fuse. I ran a T connector to the front brakes and integrated an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear. Honestly, the truck stopped better than before. I also grew up driving older trucks without ABS, so it wasn't a big deal. I actually prefer a vehicle without ABS.
How 'bout the holdoff valve, and the safety switch?
 

kylenautique

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I'm replacing the pump. I can feel in the steering in a parking lot that its lost some power. Trying a Napa brand pump this time.
 

kylenautique

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Small update.. I tried the "old timer advice" for hydroboost fluid. I flushed the power steering fluid with Dex3 ATF, but not all the way. The system is about a 70/30 ATF to PS fluid ratio. The hydroboost seems to work way better now. I never experience brake fade. This also helped the power steering, but did not cure it. when I drive around town at slow speeds, when entering a parking lot, I can feel/hear the pump struggle. Before I ditch the pump, I'm going to install another cooler on the PS return line. Cool the fluid down and see if that helps anything. The Hydroboost liked it, so why not try it on the steering system..
 

AuroraGirl

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Small update.. I tried the "old timer advice" for hydroboost fluid. I flushed the power steering fluid with Dex3 ATF, but not all the way. The system is about a 70/30 ATF to PS fluid ratio. The hydroboost seems to work way better now. I never experience brake fade. This also helped the power steering, but did not cure it. when I drive around town at slow speeds, when entering a parking lot, I can feel/hear the pump struggle. Before I ditch the pump, I'm going to install another cooler on the PS return line. Cool the fluid down and see if that helps anything. The Hydroboost liked it, so why not try it on the steering system..
I dont know if you have done anything yet, but the issue you describe could easily be the rotation of the pump. DO you have the "Stock" pulley? Dropping a bit in pulley diameter will likely solve your problem. While i Dont approve of your fluid choice, cooling it more than stock should maximise your life fine. The trucks did come with dexron iii despite it not being the best fluid, i couldnt see it nuking the system. I couldnt explain the behavior after your partial flush other than the fluid you flushed carried out some contamination or varnish. A magnetic inline filter before the cooler is always wise and cooling is wiser. The pulley diameter change should be small because the pump does have a rotational speed limit , im not sure how much it is
 

kylenautique

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I dont know if you have done anything yet, but the issue you describe could easily be the rotation of the pump. DO you have the "Stock" pulley? Dropping a bit in pulley diameter will likely solve your problem. While i Dont approve of your fluid choice, cooling it more than stock should maximise your life fine. The trucks did come with dexron iii despite it not being the best fluid, i couldnt see it nuking the system. I couldnt explain the behavior after your partial flush other than the fluid you flushed carried out some contamination or varnish. A magnetic inline filter before the cooler is always wise and cooling is wiser. The pulley diameter change should be small because the pump does have a rotational speed limit , im not sure how much it is
That is an interesting thought if running a smaller pulley. My pulley is stock. I'm going to add the cooler this week, but that might be a good idea to help increase the flow at slower speeds.
 

dfarr67

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I'll be replacing my box and pump this weekend, have both GM oem PSF and Chevron synthetic ATF HD which is TES295 spec- hmmm which one.
 
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