1. Coolant flush and fill, including removing the knock sensor on the right side, and removing the block drain plug on the left side, so that the gallon of coolant trapped in the block gets removed, along with the debris that has dropped to the bottom of the water jacket. The knock sensor needs to be torqued into place. Over-tight makes them extra-sensitive. Too loose and they leak. Apply appropriate sealant (Loctite/Permatex 592 recommended) to both the knock sensor and the block drain plug. On MY vehicles, the block drain plug is replaced with a brass draincock.
Would have been nice to have done this while the thermostat job was in-progress. Also, clean radiator and A/C condenser fins--they're probably caked with dirt, maybe have folded-over fins.
Flush 'n' fill kit--there are multiple brands, and any parts store should have it (or be able to get it.)
www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCFY5W/?coliid=I2S26W9IAZJJ30&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
2. Coolant hoses--heater hoses and radiator hoses. Again, a job for when the cooling system is already empty during the flush 'n' fill. The heater core supply hose attaches to the intake manifold via a quick-connect fitting that is known to be troublesome. The Dorman replacemet quick-coupler is a wonderful piece that lasts much longer than the GM original.
3. What do you mean by a "bigger belt"? Did you check the serpentine belt tensioner, and tensioner pulley?
4. Inspect two front, and one rear brake hose. Inspect metal tubing for brake fluid. Verify brake linings, drums/rotors, and calipers/wheel cylinders. Assure that park brake works and releases. Flush brake fluid. Open bleeder screws (one at a time) at all four wheels, plus the bleeder screw on the ABS unit. Do the ABS first. When the ABS fluid runs virgin-new, close the bleeder and then do the wheel cylinders/calipers.
5. Flush power steering fluid. Consider adding a PS filter to the return hose.
6. Chassis lube. You may have grease zerks at two upper ball joints, two lower ball joints, two inner tie rod ends, two outer tie rod ends, one at the Pitman arm where it connects to the center link, one or two at the idler arm, and potentially some on the driveshaft(s) such as the slip yoke on the front shaft, and maybe on the U-joints if they've been replaced at some point.
While you're under the truck dicking with the grease-gun and grease zerks, shake, push, and pull on all the suspension components looking for looseness. Sloppy ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, steering damper (if equipped) and wiped-out control arm bushings are fairly likely.
The rag joint on the steering shaft near the steering gearbox (under the plastic shroud) is almost certainly wiped-out. The rag joint can be replaced, but the better solution is to replace the entire lower steering shaft (and lower bolt) with one that has a U-joint.instead of a rag joint.
7. Remove HVAC blower motor and fan, inspect the A/C evaporator for debris--pine needles, leaves, mouse-nests, etc. Sometimes the A/C evpaporator can be cleaned-out, sometimes they're so packed with crap (or they actually leak) that it's better to replace 'em. Assure that the evaporator drain nipple has a rubber "duckbill"; and the drain nipple isn't plugged with debris.
8. Actually lower the spare tire, make sure the winch isn't seized. Check spare tire air pressure while you're at it.
Would have been nice to have done this while the thermostat job was in-progress. Also, clean radiator and A/C condenser fins--they're probably caked with dirt, maybe have folded-over fins.
Flush 'n' fill kit--there are multiple brands, and any parts store should have it (or be able to get it.)
www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCFY5W/?coliid=I2S26W9IAZJJ30&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
2. Coolant hoses--heater hoses and radiator hoses. Again, a job for when the cooling system is already empty during the flush 'n' fill. The heater core supply hose attaches to the intake manifold via a quick-connect fitting that is known to be troublesome. The Dorman replacemet quick-coupler is a wonderful piece that lasts much longer than the GM original.
3. What do you mean by a "bigger belt"? Did you check the serpentine belt tensioner, and tensioner pulley?
4. Inspect two front, and one rear brake hose. Inspect metal tubing for brake fluid. Verify brake linings, drums/rotors, and calipers/wheel cylinders. Assure that park brake works and releases. Flush brake fluid. Open bleeder screws (one at a time) at all four wheels, plus the bleeder screw on the ABS unit. Do the ABS first. When the ABS fluid runs virgin-new, close the bleeder and then do the wheel cylinders/calipers.
5. Flush power steering fluid. Consider adding a PS filter to the return hose.
6. Chassis lube. You may have grease zerks at two upper ball joints, two lower ball joints, two inner tie rod ends, two outer tie rod ends, one at the Pitman arm where it connects to the center link, one or two at the idler arm, and potentially some on the driveshaft(s) such as the slip yoke on the front shaft, and maybe on the U-joints if they've been replaced at some point.
While you're under the truck dicking with the grease-gun and grease zerks, shake, push, and pull on all the suspension components looking for looseness. Sloppy ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, steering damper (if equipped) and wiped-out control arm bushings are fairly likely.
The rag joint on the steering shaft near the steering gearbox (under the plastic shroud) is almost certainly wiped-out. The rag joint can be replaced, but the better solution is to replace the entire lower steering shaft (and lower bolt) with one that has a U-joint.instead of a rag joint.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
7. Remove HVAC blower motor and fan, inspect the A/C evaporator for debris--pine needles, leaves, mouse-nests, etc. Sometimes the A/C evpaporator can be cleaned-out, sometimes they're so packed with crap (or they actually leak) that it's better to replace 'em. Assure that the evaporator drain nipple has a rubber "duckbill"; and the drain nipple isn't plugged with debris.
8. Actually lower the spare tire, make sure the winch isn't seized. Check spare tire air pressure while you're at it.
Last edited:
