Blew a bearing, is my spindle reusable?

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rzr6-4

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At least now it isn’t making horrible noises but I haven’t taken it at high speeds yet.

If it was making grinding noises, your bearing change was LONG over due. Whenever I have the wheels off the ground I check for wobble. Little wobble = replace. Grinding means that failure is imminent and it has been wobbling for quite some time.

Bad water pump
Bad alternator
Rear pinion drive shaft seal just started leaking.
Now this!

That's just a warm up. And FYI, My ram is an 09 and its not any better. If you want to get away from maintenance, you are going to have to cough up some $$ for a 20+ year update.
 

Isaacmacleod

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So, let me get this straight. You bought a 28 year old truck and thought you were not gonna have to go thru it and address some maintenance needs. If you bought it with no paperwork showing when maintenance and repairs had been done, then you can assume it would need some work and I would bet that the front bearings were probably loose when you bought it. C'mon man!
I know..
I came up with a big list of preventative maintenance I wanted to do when I bought the thing.

It was very well maintained by the previous owner, he only used it to tow his camper, and wrote down all the maintenance he did to it in the manual.

Everyone around me kept talking me out of a lot of the work I wanted to do.
“wait until the brake pads are more worn down to change that bearing” etc.

now I am paying the price via this spindle.
 

Isaacmacleod

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It's really not bad at all. The toughest part of this job *can* be getting the ball joints to unseat from the spindle. There's a trick that makes it easy - use the coil spring's pressure to your advantage.

Disclaimer: following advice provided to use at your own risk - read it carefully so that you understand what you're doing, and possibly check some youtube videos that show this procedure to help visualize how it works. It's safe when done properly, but mistakes can be dangerous. I've done it this way countless times and never had an issue. It's my preferred method because if your ball joints are good, you won't rip up the grease boots on them with a fork tool; it's not needed.

Jack the truck up and support it with stands on the frame. Remove wheel, brake rotor and caliper, shock absorber (you can really just remove the bottom 2 bolts and let it dangle), sway bar end link, tie rod end from the spindle (this goes easier if you have an impact gun.)

Then jack up the lower control arm enough to put a little pressure on the spring. Loosen the nuts on both ball joint studs to the point that they're at the end of the stud but still fully engaged on the threads.

Use a ball peen hammer or mini-sledge and tap the spindle casting around the upper ball joint stud and the spring pressure will make it "pop". Lower the floor jack so that it rests about an inch under the lower control arm and tap the spindle around the lower ball joint, it should pop loose as well.

Then jack the lower control arm back up until there's slight pressure on the spring again, remove the nuts from the ball joints, push the upper control arm up and you can remove the spindle. It's very important that you remember while the nuts are removed from the ball joints, to not lower or bump the jack as the spring could potentially jump out.

*And I'll apologize in advance if I overlooked any minor detail here, I'm sure someone will chime in. Again I've done this so many times I could probably do it with my eyes closed, so it's more by muscle memory than by thought.*

Richard
I’ll do this myself, already ordered a spindle from a junkyard in Michigan.
I will take it to my local do-it-yourself
Center which has tools galore. Air impacts.
And the guy can help me also.
Between my Detroit iron manuals and this comment
And of course some YouTube,
I think I got it.
But I’m kindof leaning towards letting this spindle run at least until I repack the bearings next year.
The spindle wasn’t THAT bad.
 

movietvet

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I know..
I came up with a big list of preventative maintenance I wanted to do when I bought the thing.

It was very well maintained by the previous owner, he only used it to tow his camper, and wrote down all the maintenance he did to it in the manual.

Everyone around me kept talking me out of a lot of the work I wanted to do.
“wait until the brake pads are more worn down to change that bearing” etc.

now I am paying the price via this spindle.
Your truck. Your choice as to what you do and in what order. There is always basics when you buy used. I personally change all fluids to get to a baseline and KNOW. Unless there is PROOF of fluids changed recently. Plus, I always do an inspection, like I was going on a trip. Shake down everything. That bearing has had problems for a while. Should have been caught.
 

Isaacmacleod

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Your advice will be a huge help if OP hasn’t done this before :waytogo:
Thank you all very much!
I haven’t worked on vehicles before buying this truck.
But as an electrician apprentice I know I should be a mechanic too.

I fell In love with the community and the truck itself honestly and decided my goal was to make the truck outlive myself and pass it on to my kids on day.

So I’ve been trying to learn as much as possible. I just did a complete brake revival which I had to throw in the towel when I couldn’t get the air out of the lines.
Just dropped it off at the shop this morning for a routine brake bleed which they can’t seem to figure out. They kept it over night.
I will probably do this spindle in a preventative maintenance fashion but I’m not changing it out right now unless it gives me trouble.
 

movietvet

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I’ll do this myself, already ordered a spindle from a junkyard in Michigan.
I will take it to my local do-it-yourself
Center which has tools galore. Air impacts.
And the guy can help me also.
Between my Detroit iron manuals and this comment
And of course some YouTube,
I think I got it.
But I’m kindof leaning towards letting this spindle run at least until I repack the bearings next year.
The spindle wasn’t THAT bad.
You have admitted to "just learning" and now you are making the GUESS that the spindle "wasn't THAT bad". As I said above, your truck and your choice. :(:eek:
 

Isaacmacleod

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Your truck. Your choice as to what you do and in what order. There is always basics when you buy used. I personally change all fluids to get to a baseline and KNOW. Unless there is PROOF of fluids changed recently. Plus, I always do an inspection, like I was going on a trip. Shake down everything. That bearing has had problems for a while. Should have been caught.
Agreed. I should have done a more thorough run down when I got it,
In my finite wisdom I was able to throw on a new air filter, oil change,
Greased Zirc fittings, and it needed a water pump pretty quickly so I did a complete overhaul except the radiator.
Like I said I knew my brakes/ bearings needed service via the mileage in the service manual, but was lazy and waited too long /:
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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That bearing has had problems for a while. Should have been caught.

You learn as you go.

Many years ago I bought a used 1986 Old Calais, 2.5L Iron Duke.

The alternator had a strange whine to it but I didn't understand why. "Just the way it is" I reckoned.

Then one day it let me down. The first thing I noticed was the whine was gone. "Hmm, why's that?" About 30min later I noticed car's stereo started acting up. Then I finally noticed the idiot light.

Fortunately I had enough battery reserve to get myself to a comfortable spot and call for help on the cellphone. This was back when "cellphones" were mounted in the trunk, with a handset on the console and an external antenna on the rear window.

I know more, now.
 
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Isaacmacleod

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You have admitted to "just learning" and now you are making the GUESS that the spindle "wasn't THAT bad". As I said above, your truck and your choice.
Okay I hear you.
Maybe I should just bite the bullet and let my truck sit in the driveway for a while longer. Till the spindle gets here then do a proper fix on it.
It’s just a pain because my truck is my money maker and I’m losing money in the meantime.
 
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