Redneck refresh 2000 K3500 CCLB 7.4/454

Motrhedx81 said:

I ran into something interesting when installing the distributor. The GM cam I chose said it needed a specific distributor gear. Whether I really need to change it or not based on what gear was already on my Delphi distributor, I did it anyway. So, I swapped the gear. When I went to try to install it, it would sit proud by about 1 to 1-1/2 inch. After looking, I realized the distributor wouldn't mate up with the oil pump drive shaft, but couldn't tell why. I tried tweaking the pump shaft location to get them to line up, but no dice. Looking at the bottom of the distributor I noticed the oil pump drive end was shoved to one side inside the dist. gear. After screwing around a little bit I thought 'what the heck', I'll overdrive the dist. gear/shaft roll pin and then got to the opposite side and punch the other side of the pin back to put the shaft in the center of the gear (and make sure the pin isn't sticking out too much on one side). After I got that done and tried to drop the distributor and, holy smokes, it just dropped right in. So, if you ever have to change the distributor gear, make sure the center shaft pump drive end is centered in the gear.

(This is an old distributor that I ground the gear down to make an oil priming tool on an old project)

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This oil pump drive end needed to be centered in the gear.

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Click to expand...

Old distributors are invaluable

I think I might have 454 envy

The beast lives!

Got it all buttoned up and went for the first drive around the neighborhood. I had a couple of goofy things to get straightened out before though.



I went back and readjusted the valve springs just because I wanted to be extra sure it was right. Was it really necessary, probably not, but made me feel better about it, haha.

If you noticed in the couple of break-in videos there was a popping sound on the LH side. Took a little bit to figure it out. We were doing the trick where you use a hose at your ear and listen around to find the source. It was around the exhaust manifold. Then I was looking down at the exhaust manifold and noticed really small gaps in the gasket showing, and saw exhaust marks. We realized I installed the gasket wrong. It was facing the right way but it was 180° out. Add this to the list of doofus moves throughout this project, haha. Took the manifold out, turned it around, and viola, it works like it's supposed to. Funny how that happens.

Also, the oil pressure issue... I tried a new sensor. That didn't fix it. The sensor did get a little messed up when I installed it but I'm thinking the wire got screwed up somewhere in the process. And I really don't feel like digging into that back there much more at the moment. What a pain to get to.

But man does this thing sound and run good. It's now a wild lopey cam but that 454HO cam gives it just enough so you know something is there. It definitely needs some tuning, but I'm going to enjoy what I have for now. The 0411 ECM swap and tune is in the future but I have other things around the house to catch up on for now.








(Yeah, the exhaust pipes are a little tweaked. They're on the to-do list too)

Motrhedx81 said:

I went back and readjusted the valve springs

Click to expand...

Huh?

Adjust the rockers/pushrods/springs. I was wondering if I had them adjusted too tight or something so I redid it. It's been a long time since I messed with an adjustable valvetrain so I wanted to make sure I had it right.

"Adjusting the rockers/pushrods/springs" is really setting the lifter preload. Has NOTHING to do with the valve springs, and does not "adjust" the pushrods.

Other engine families have different methods of adjusting lifter preload, including having NO adjustment, and merely using pushrods approximately the "right" length and lifters with a generous amount of plunger travel.




Valve springs CAN be "adjusted" for installed height/spring tension by means of shims under the springs, or special valve keepers in the retainers. But this is done at cylinder-head assembly, not "in the field".

Words matter. Sorry, I worked on the truck all day and words are hard at that point.
I had the valve spring and rotator eliminators installed and preload/height set by my machine shop.
I reset the lifter preload.

That engine sounds really happy. Excellent build from what I can hear and see.

I took the truck out for a shakedown run yesterday. I drove about 40 miles and it ran like a champ.

and... In case anyone is interested, below is the final parts list...

Short block...
Rings: Hastings moly rings 2M4718
Main bearings: Clevite H series MS829H
Rod bearings: Clevite P series CB743P8
Head bolts: ARP 135-3601
Oil pump: Melling M-77
Cam: GM 24502611
Distributor gear: GM 10456413

Heads...
(previously port matched and 3 angle valve job)
Heads modified at machine shop to fit eliminators and standard valve seals. Assembled valves and springs.
Valve springs: Comp 911-16
Spring rotator eliminators: Comp 4779-8 (qty 2)
Valve spring retainer: Comp 748-16
Valve spring retainer keeper/lock: Comp 612-16
Pushrods: Comp 7815-16
Lifters: Comp 900-16
Adjustable rocker arm conversion kit: 4514-KIT
Timing chain: Cloye's C-3216 (single roller to account for crank position reluctor)

Gasket set: Felpro 260-1932
(FYI... This gasket set isn't 100% for this engine. It was missing the EGR valve gasket and a few other small seals. I would call it about 95%)
Exhaust Manifold Gasket: Mahle MS16091 (stainless MLS gaskets)

Case+ of brake cleaner
Gallon of mineral spirits
Gallon of Simple Green
Costco pack of Scott's shop towels
Lots of elbow grease and paint
Engine paint used...
Orange: VHT SP123
Black: Dulpicolor low gloss black DE1634
Silver: Dulpicolor aluminum DE1615