Redneck refresh 2000 K3500 CCLB 7.4/454

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Motrhedx81

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Finally ready to send this pig back home...
We started in mid April, so it's taken a couple of months to finally get here.

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We reinstalled just the short block because it made it easier to man handle, and easier to access the bell housing bolts, etc.
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Motrhedx81

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Got the heads and valvetrain in.

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Mocked up the intake and valve covers because I just couldn't help myself.

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Helpful tip... don't try to prime an engine oil system that has external cooler lines (without all being hooked up). It makes a heck of a mess. Apparently the oil goes through the cooler first (duh). The oil just puked right of the lines. ‍

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Motrhedx81

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I ran into something interesting when installing the distributor. The GM cam I chose said it needed a specific distributor gear. Whether I really need to change it or not based on what gear was already on my Delphi distributor, I did it anyway. So, I swapped the gear. When I went to try to install it, it would sit proud by about 1 to 1-1/2 inch. After looking, I realized the distributor wouldn't mate up with the oil pump drive shaft, but couldn't tell why. I tried tweaking the pump shaft location to get them to line up, but no dice. Looking at the bottom of the distributor I noticed the oil pump drive end was shoved to one side inside the dist. gear. After screwing around a little bit I thought 'what the heck', I'll overdrive the dist. gear/shaft roll pin and then got to the opposite side and punch the other side of the pin back to put the shaft in the center of the gear (and make sure the pin isn't sticking out too much on one side). After I got that done and tried to drop the distributor and, holy smokes, it just dropped right in. So, if you ever have to change the distributor gear, make sure the center shaft pump drive end is centered in the gear.

(This is an old distributor that I ground the gear down to make an oil priming tool on an old project)
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This oil pump drive end needed to be centered in the gear.

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Road Trip

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Got the heads and valvetrain in.

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Greetings @Motrhedx81,

In the photo above I couldn't help but notice that the intake ports show signs of 'above & beyond' levels of
attention having been paid to them. Looks like you are trying to make the most of what you have to work
with...and I'm picking up what you are putting down. :0)

As a matter of fact your big block refresh thread looks really good from over here in upstate NY. Love the
attention to detail, and this is exactly what I had in mind with my '99 C2500 with the factory 7.4 motor.

The engine runs really quiet & smooth given it's got 220+K miles on it. I have done very similar approaches
(hone, re-ring, new bearings, timing chain, valve job, and lifter cleaning) on high mileage motors *before* problems
develop, and I've always had very good luck in terms of longevity, oil pressure, low oil consumption, noise
levels, etc., down the road.

A lot of people have a negative opinion of a re-ring & fresh bearings because so often this is attempted on
a 'worn out' engine. But if you do this on a 'worn in' engine that has no ridge at the top of the bores, and
the crank journals aren't oval shaped, you can realize 90+% of a all-new engine for a fraction of the cost.

And of course this gives you a chance to refresh the mating surfaces of the valves and the respective valve
seats. And of course the intake ports are looking better than new. The chevy orange short block + tasty
intake & eye candy valve covers seal the deal. Can't wait to see it all back together with an engine bay
beauty shot.

Sincere thanks for sharing this thread. Well played, sir. :waytogo:
 
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Road Trip

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After a little aluminum paint color.

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Q: Could you share the brand & part # of the paint that you used here? In the photo it has the look of a nice wrinkle paint,
and that's something I like a lot, especially on cast surfaces like this.

Nice.
 
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