350 vortex or 6.0

L31MaxExpress said:

That Volant is for a TBI. Also no idea on that specific engine. The rest looks like a decent start to making some added power. The Summit cams are great cams. To run a cam with more than 0.490 lift, you will need a set of Comp 787-16 retainers and 0.600" lift LS springs.

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Wrong intake, top left looks like it has a MAF

Top left intake is the correct one.

L31MaxExpress said:

Top left intake is the correct one.

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Yeah I was stupid, but you think those could get me to what I want? Or should i just keep Cam that comes in the crate and see what happens

Feral peasant said:

Yeah I was stupid, but you think those could get me to what I want? Or should i just keep Cam that comes in the crate and see what happens

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In your heavy truck, I would keep the cam that comes in the crate engine, no sense voiding the warranty on a driver. Add the intake, add long tube headers and tune it. Those changes will add about 50 hp to the factory rating of the engine. That is on the low-end of what you want but the most budget friendly and you would not be tearing into an engine under warranty. That company might offer that same engine with a Mellings 198/210 @ 0.050 cam. I have seen several that do, like ATK and they claim 315 hp and more torque across the whole RPM range from the upgraded cam. I tuned a TBI 1993 G20 van a couple of years ago for a guy that had the ATK 315 HP L31 in it. It ran extremely well. The added torque from the cam really helped pull the added weight and the added drag of the raised roof on that van compared to the previous stock L31 it had in it. Another TBI tuner basically detonated the first engine apart though and may have been a bit weak due to running for a couple of years with audible detonation under load.

L31MaxExpress said:

In your heavy truck, I would keep the cam that comes in the crate engine, no sense voiding the warranty on a driver. Add the intake, add long tube headers and tune it. Those changes will add about 50 hp to the factory rating of the engine. That is on the low-end of what you want but the most budget friendly and you would not be tearing into an engine under warranty. That company might offer that same engine with a Mellings 198/210 @ 0.050 cam. I have seen several that do, like ATK and they claim 315 hp and more torque across the whole RPM range from the upgraded cam. I tuned a TBI 1993 G20 van a couple of years ago for a guy that had the ATK 315 HP L31 in it. It ran extremely well. The added torque from the cam really helped pull the added weight and the added drag of the raised roof on that van compared to the previous stock L31 it had in it. Another TBI tuner basically detonated the first engine apart though and may have been a bit weak due to running for a couple of years with audible detonation under load.

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Alright thank you so much, I'll probably make another post to finalize what to buy for the engine but I think I'll be going with the 5.7 option

Feral peasant said:

I have a 98 2500HD 5.7 vortex with early generation of 4l80, I plan on going through this whole truck and rebuilding it. I want it as a daily driver with a little pep in it's step, Im not very mechanically inclined but I'm egar to learn. I wanted to know if it would be cheaper and easier maintenance to build a 350 or swap to 6.0. I would also like to know if I should switch my 4l80 to a newer one or if you can get that rebuilt (Im not confident enough to build it) I'm thinking 300-400 horses I believe stock 350 is pushing around 250 but I doubt the one I have will be (268k) cab should be coming off and bed so exhause work and other stuff should be a little easier. I won't be able to dump 10k into the engine and trans since I'm just starting out as an electrical apprentice. I have done some work as in oil cooler lines, wheel hub and rotor, and my starter. I'd like as much input as possible for this since I'm just getting into doing mechanical stuff. I have very limited welding experience (10 hours mig) I will be getting a beater for how ever long it takes. If you don't mind I will ask questions to why you suggest stuff if that is okay.

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Depends if you wanna tow and if you have the means to pull your motor (shop or money to pay a shop).

If you don’t, I don’t know about the bottom end but you can obviously build your top end out of the engine bay. This is why it depends, are you towing? If not, you can go for a bigger cam and enjoy the higher rpm’s. If you are towing, I would keep the power band lower.

I plan on going camshaft up, big cam, LS6 or beehive springs, 1.5 rockers, and some nice shiny valve heads, all the supporting fuel and intake mods. Of course with a whole reseal of the engine.

aldang25879 said:

Depends if you wanna tow and if you have the means to pull your motor (shop or money to pay a shop).

If you don’t, I don’t know about the bottom end but you can obviously build your top end out of the engine bay. This is why it depends, are you towing? If not, you can go for a bigger cam and enjoy the higher rpm’s. If you are towing, I would keep the power band lower.

I plan on going camshaft up, big cam, LS6 or beehive springs, 1.5 rockers, and some nice shiny valve heads, all the supporting fuel and intake mods. Of course with a whole reseal of the engine.

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I don't have a shop but instead a garage on a house I'll have to buy an engine hoist and the block stand to start tearing it apart I doubt I'll use too much from the old block since I want everything new, I won't be towing much that I know of nothing like a full business truck. I also don't want to mess with internals since they might void the warranty on the block

I just went through this with my 98 half ton. I debated on the 383 stroker, 6.0, 5.3 and rebuilding the 5.7 L31. I really wanted to go with the 383 stroker, but cost wise, the 383 would cost over 6 grand for a long block, and building it doesn't really shave off much. I wasn't able to find a 6.0 with low-ish mileage, so I decided to go with the rebuild of the L31. The 6.0 is cool, but any LS swap will really nickle and dime you. You have to start with the computer swap, then buy the A/C and Alternator relocating brackets, motor mount adapters, fuel line connectors, exhaust modification. Its not a simple drop in and go swap. That being said, if you know what you are doing, do your homework, it can be done. I kind of wish I had been more patient and found a 6.0, but, oh well.

I upgraded my cam to the Comp Cams 08-409-8. The other option was 08-500-8, but it requires different rockers and lifters to achieve the required lift. The 08-409-8 will fit with stock lifters, and it makes pretty awesome power.

You can really wake up an L31 with a few upgrades and modifications. First off, 0411 ECM. I'm replacing my black box ECM next month with the 0411. Next is a custom tune. I have a Black Bear tune. I really like it, and Justin did a great job! They are a little slow to respond, which is frustrating. The 0411 will give you more tuner options. Adjusting the TQ management, lockup, and dialing in your tune to your truck really makes a difference. Next is the cats. I deleted mine because theft here in SW Washington is getting pretty stupid. I will reinstall some high flow cats once they figure out how to curb this issue. Removing the cats opened up the performance a little bit. The engine pulls a little harder. Electric Fans will take some drag off your engine especially driving around town, traffic and hot temps with the A/C running. If you haven't done it yet, upgrade the spider injector to the new version. Doing all these mods will make your truck a little more zippy and powerful.

The 383 is worth the money if you have it to spend, and if you plan on keeping the truck for a long time. A fresh L31 compared to a tired L31 is a pretty great upgrade. You will really notice it when climbing hills. My engine pulls better and easier. I don't have a race truck, but it feels like the truck is not working as hard as it used to with the old tired engine.

Feral peasant said:

I don't have a shop but instead a garage on a house I'll have to buy an engine hoist and the block stand to start tearing it apart I doubt I'll use too much from the old block since I want everything new, I won't be towing much that I know of nothing like a full business truck. I also don't want to mess with internals since they might void the warranty on the block

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If your plan is to get a new engine put in it I would buy a 383 stroker. Over an LS of any kind.

You can’t go wrong with a 383. It has the old school sound with the right exhaust and will whoop just about anything. They take boost well if you buy one rated for it.

aldang25879 said:

If your plan is to get a new engine put in it I would buy a 383 stroker. Over an LS of any kind.

You can’t go wrong with a 383. It has the old school sound with the right exhaust and will whoop just about anything. They take boost well if you buy one rated for it.

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The only reason I'm not thinking of a 383 is price I don't have 10 grand to drop on just the engine, I don't plan to race either just something a little quick for decent price