700R4 Information Thread

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NickTransmissions

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Yeah "shift kit" is a buzz word. When I built my TH350 I didn't use any "shift kit". I just removed the second an high accumulator springs,made spacers for them and drilled the separator plate. That tranny is still in my Elcamino and has nice positive shifts that aren't abusive. If I can do that with this tranny then I see no reason to buy a "shift kit". This truck is my daily driver. My concern is longevity and speeding clutch apply will make them last a lot longer. Anything else I can do to increase longevity I'm all in.
If you havent started your build yet, set some time to watch my 700R4 and 4L60E "high perf" videos in each respective playlist. I create and publish them to quickly share large quantites of information specific to those transmissions, that would otherwise take much longer to explain. There's plenty of content that will give you ideas of what to do and how to do it. Obviously, feel free to ask questions along the way.

The main areas of weakness of those transmissions are the TV boost, plunger/sleeve, pump, 3-4 clutch (under engineered in general and esp relative to engines these units frequently see today), band (usually too much clearance, too aggressive a hydraulic calibration, reuse of reverse drums with warped surfaces) and sun shell.

Focus your attn and resources beefing up those areas and you'll be good

The gear train/output shaft is fine, as is the input shaft and drum as long as they dont leak. Gear lube mods help with longevity and a Sonnax Smart Shell is a great bang for your buck upgrade. Pair it with the 03+ reaction shaft and you're set with that part of the trans.

The rest of the clutch packs arent overly vulnerable and easy to set up correctly - add 97+ bonded steel/rubber apply pistons and the fwd return spring to go with them and you're set. Later valve bodies aren't fussy and hydraulic mods are straight-forward...Also, remove the tcc check ball in the snout of the input shaft and install the 4L60E equivalent to get more TCC apply fluid to the converter clutch quicker...
 

tayto

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Of what?

So the sun gear doesn't get lube oil thought the shaft? What is your thoughts of cutting those grooves in the face of the sun gear at an angle so they pull the oil inward?
When I built my TH350 I doubled the sun gear bushings and used the wide bushing in the direct drum. Are there any HD improvements like that for the 700R4
4l60e Teflon pump & tailshaft bushing..also the late style seals for these locations are superior as well.
th350c bushing innformt stator
double up on the bushings in the rear sun gear vs the sonnax extra wide
 

Scooterwrench

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If you havent started your build yet, set some time to watch my 700R4 and 4L60E "high perf" videos in each respective playlist. I create and publish them to quickly share large quantites of information specific to those transmissions, that would otherwise take much longer to explain. There's plenty of content that will give you ideas of what to do and how to do it. Obviously, feel free to ask questions along the way.

The main areas of weakness of those transmissions are the TV boost, plunger/sleeve, pump, 3-4 clutch (under engineered in general and esp relative to engines these units frequently see today), band (usually too much clearance, too aggressive a hydraulic calibration, reuse of reverse drums with warped surfaces) and sun shell.

Focus your attn and resources beefing up those areas and you'll be good

The gear train/output shaft is fine, as is the input shaft and drum as long as they dont leak. Gear lube mods help with longevity and a Sonnax Smart Shell is a great bang for your buck upgrade. Pair it with the 03+ reaction shaft and you're set with that part of the trans.

The rest of the clutch packs arent overly vulnerable and easy to set up correctly - add 97+ bonded steel/rubber apply pistons and the fwd return spring to go with them and you're set. Later valve bodies aren't fussy and hydraulic mods are straight-forward...Also, remove the tcc check ball in the snout of the input shaft and install the 4L60E equivalent to get more TCC apply fluid to the converter clutch quicker...
Thanks Nick,
I haven't started on my build yet. Figure I'll acquire another tranny to build so I can keep the truck on the road then do a quick R&R.
 

tayto

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if you're wanting better shift points try and find one out of a v8 F-body, you'll have swap the tail housing but can do that pretty easily during the swap.
 

Scooterwrench

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if you're wanting better shift points try and find one out of a v8 F-body, you'll have swap the tail housing but can do that pretty easily during the swap.
Shift points are determined by governor and TV right? I like my part throttle shift points as they are now but WOT sucks,currently 4200
 

Scooterwrench

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If you havent started your build yet, set some time to watch my 700R4 and 4L60E "high perf" videos in each respective playlist. I create and publish them to quickly share large quantites of information specific to those transmissions, that would otherwise take much longer to explain. There's plenty of content that will give you ideas of what to do and how to do it. Obviously, feel free to ask questions along the way.

The main areas of weakness of those transmissions are the TV boost, plunger/sleeve, pump, 3-4 clutch (under engineered in general and esp relative to engines these units frequently see today), band (usually too much clearance, too aggressive a hydraulic calibration, reuse of reverse drums with warped surfaces) and sun shell.

Focus your attn and resources beefing up those areas and you'll be good

The gear train/output shaft is fine, as is the input shaft and drum as long as they dont leak. Gear lube mods help with longevity and a Sonnax Smart Shell is a great bang for your buck upgrade. Pair it with the 03+ reaction shaft and you're set with that part of the trans.

The rest of the clutch packs arent overly vulnerable and easy to set up correctly - add 97+ bonded steel/rubber apply pistons and the fwd return spring to go with them and you're set. Later valve bodies aren't fussy and hydraulic mods are straight-forward...Also, remove the tcc check ball in the snout of the input shaft and install the 4L60E equivalent to get more TCC apply fluid to the converter clutch quicker...
Hey Nick,
700R4 and 4L60-E share the same 2WD output shaft?
 
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