Upper intake manifold inspection

[Caman96]

I can see it has the updated injectors, did the bracket get swapped out at the same time? If you leave the bracket from the old poppet style injectors in, the injector interface sits a bit low. Something to think about.

Is that just for the Standard Motor Products MPFI or any brand? Like an Acdelco MPFI. I’ve only heard of that issue when using an SMP with original bracket.

 

[Vikingdude]

Is that just for the Standard Motor Products MPFI or any brand? Like an Acdelco MPFI. I’ve only heard of that issue when using an SMP with original bracket.

I got a Delphi from Motorman Injection and they included an AC Delco bracket. It is indeed slightly different than the one that held in my poppet style injectors. There's quite a bit of "float" in it, but it's a couple mm.

 

[jamesdking]

Well I’m finally able to get it off after a hectic week. Lost power for 4 days!

I see gasket issues for sure so it’s all for a good reason. I’ll start the cleaning and reassemble slowly this week.

 

[jamesdking]

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[Schurkey]

Ideally, a person pulls the block drain plug(s) and knock sensor if screwed into a block drain hole before ripping the intake manifold off.

As I've said in other posts, I replace block drain plugs with brass draincocks on vehicles I own. Be sure to torque the knock sensor into place, with appropriate sealer on the threads of the knock sensor or plug/draincock.

Vacuum the intake ports and lifter valley with a wet/dry shop vac. Remove ALL your spark plugs and spin the engine ove. If coolant went down an intake port with a valve open, the cylinder could be flooded.

I would remove everything "easy" for cleaning in a solvent tank. Spider, dogbones for sure. Maybe lifters--take them apart ONE AT A TIME for cleaning, then reassemble.

Change oil 'n' filter.

 

[jamesdking]

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Other observations as I clean it all up.

The corroded part here where the gunk of mixed oil and coolant near #7
This is supposed to be blocked off as it goes nowhere? But look how corroded the metal is on the intake itself. A screwdriver chips at it and it’s cratered.

Also the bracket for the spider mount is quite loose. The one torx screw holding it down is either bottomed out or it has a shoulder that prevents it going deeper and securing the mount tightly. It moves a couple mm around if you touch it. Also I pulled it out and it’s captured so I know it’s the right screw.

 

[jamesdking]

I realized the coolant thing as soon as I pulled it. I’ve shop vacuumed it as best as possible and now I’ll pull the plugs and turn it over to clear what spilled inside. Since I pulled the distributer while it wasn’t TDC I’ll get to properly find that and reinstall it as well. I should have known better. Is there any reason I can’t spin the motor with the starter at this point other than losing the position the distributor was in to clear the cylinders of any coolant?

 

[Schurkey]

Go ahead and use the starter motor, AFTER you remove the spark plugs.

When you get the cylinders blown-out, you'll find TDC-Compression by looking for pressure in #1 as the crank is turned. (You can watch the valves to assure they're both closed, if the valve cover is removed.) Remember that at TDC-Exhaust, both valves are ALMOST closed, (open on overlap) and may in fact close if the lifters leak down quickly. So you'd want to watch the intake valve close, and then turn the crank to TDC.

From there, the distributor-setting procedure for Vortec engines is in the service manual. STRONGLY recommend you download the service manual set for your vehicle from the links in the Sticky thread section of the Engine forum, and read it.

 

[jamesdking]

All and all very little coolant came out. So that’s good but I’m glad I pulled them out anyway. Thanks for the advice even though I should have prevented it in the first place Schurkey.

Next time I’ll pull the fuel pump relay/fuse too. Facepalm…

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[jamesdking]

I can see it has the updated injectors, did the bracket get swapped out at the same time? If you leave the bracket from the old poppet style injectors in, the injector interface sits a bit low. Something to think about.

I’ve done a little searching and the OReilly part STD FJ504 lists as needing the bracket on the install instructions provided by them. That’s what I used according to the receipt but I don’t see that I purchased a bracket. Therefore I believe I have what was in there already. Anybody have any input. I can see that the o ring seated into the opening of the UIM about 3/16” below the topmost collar. Given there’s almost a 1/2” area for it to seat and seal I don’t see an issue???

The dust line is my evidence of where it sat. Also the o ring that was all stretched out has shrunk back to normal size. Weird.

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