Starter

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Tim W

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Good afternoon, my truck (94 silverado) started off live w a 4l60E but now has a Tremec TKX 5 speed. The shop that did the swap said, they had to replace my starter with a smaller starter bc my Orginal was too big.

A year later the starter is making noise like it needs to be reshimed or something.

I did a search but could not find anything. Does Acdelco make a specific starter for a 5.7 with a 5 speed? I did not know there was a difference.
 

Schurkey

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I know nothing about starter fitment with a TKX 5-speed. Clearly the bellhousing and/or dust shield isn't compatible with a standard direct-drive inline starter.

Post a photo of your starter. Maybe it's aftermarket, maybe it's Genuine GM, maybe it's a cheap knock-off of a Genuine GM part. Hard to know without seeing picture(s).

Assure that the photos are in-focus, resized, and nicely cropped.

If the starter ever was quiet, this isn't likely a shim problem. May be loose bolts, may be a failing starter, may be something "weird".
 
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Similar-ish problem -1992 K1500 manual transmission.

New starter installed.

New clutch safety switch.

New battery.

Runs when jumping starter directly.

Original problem: no start, no click, no power to solenoid.

I'm confused on wiring. There is no starter relay for this model.

I Have the big, maybe 2 guage pos wire from bat to large starter terminal. Then I have a 10ga from s terminal also to battery because that's how the old one that function was wired. B terminal left untouched.

Is there a fuseable link for ignition switch? I don't believe I have the two wires that attached to the starter crossed or touching as they're both well insulated.

As soon as I ground the battery, the vehicle wants to start no key in the ignition and in gear.

The newly installed clutch safety switch does not fully depress with the clutch at rest. I need to find a way to shim that closer to the clutch pedal lever to make sure that switch is fully engaged.

I don't understand why the old starter worked with this wiring in the new one doesn't unless I'm short circuiting somewhere.
 

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Tim W

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What brand starter do you have. The first starter was an orliles special. It lasted a year.

The second starter was a new carquest gold or whatever they "premium" is. It was new out of the box. It fit good w no need of any shims. It would barely turn the engine over.

Took it off and found a new acdelco starter at XL parts. Again, fit great no shims required. Fires right up
 
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This is new one I installed. O'Reilly's reman with a lifetime warranty. Fits well, no shims. Ultima Starter - Remanufactured - R713245A
 

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Current problem seems like a wiring issue to me, like I have a short circuit. I just don't understand what and where.
I don't understand why the original one had two positive leads connected to two terminals and functioned. I believe it failed because the s terminal, 10 gauge wire was corroded and shorted. I don't know if in that process I blew a fuse or fusible link. The fuses I checked in the cab will look good. The fusible links appear to be good I just haven't tested them.

Like I said, the new starter received a rebuilt 10 gauge wire from the s terminal to the positive battery terminal. When I went to connect the battery, the truck wanted to fire in gear and without the key in the ignition at all
 
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Again, no idea why the old starter was wired this way. I found a wiring diagram and looks like the 10 gauge wire should be from the s terminal to a fusible link.
 

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Schurkey

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I Have the big, maybe 2 guage pos wire from bat to large starter terminal. Then I have a 10ga from s terminal also to battery because that's how the old one that function was wired. B terminal left untouched...

...As soon as I ground the battery, the vehicle wants to start no key in the ignition and in gear.
Of course. You've bypassed everything safe, logical, and intended; bypassed the ignition switch, clutch safety switch...and I have no idea why.

Current problem seems like a wiring issue to me,
Yes.

like I have a short circuit.
Direct to B+

the new starter received a rebuilt 10 gauge wire from the s terminal to the positive battery terminal. When I went to connect the battery, the truck wanted to fire in gear and without the key in the ignition at all
Yeah, that's exactly what happens when the "S" terminal has battery power.

The question is why the "S" terminal is connected to the battery instead of the ignition switch via the clutch safety switch--GM almost always uses a purple wire.
 
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I get it. O'Reilly guy told me to hook her up to s term and yes, totally understand she don't go there!

Right now she's hooked direct to b terminal.

Now I have to figure out what in the Sam hell I blew up since my inexperienced self shorted her out. I pulled the 30amp 12v fuse. It looks OK ish and tests 0 ohms on multimeter
 

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