Starter

[Lipstickonapig]

Of course. You've bypassed everything safe, logical, and intended; bypassed the ignition switch, clutch safety switch...and I have no idea why.


Yes.


Direct to B+


Yeah, that's exactly what happens when the "S" terminal has battery power.

The question is why the "S" terminal is connected to the battery instead of the ignition switch via the clutch safety switch--GM almost always uses a purple wire.

Upon further inspection, the old original starter only had two terminals. The O'Reilly guy told me just to use the s terminal. I didn't realize the old starter just had two terminals it didn't think all the way through that I put direct current straight to the starter and why the hell wouldn't it blow up at me.

I thought if the clutch safety switch was engaged, it would bypass the starter solenoid. Obviously that's not how that works. If I knew what I was doing I wouldn't ask so I appreciate the help.

I learn by doing since I don't have a teacher.

I looked at the wiring diagrams for this model and year. They didn't make sense to me because the wires and routes which they were connected- before I touched it- didn't match what was in the wiring schematic.

The more I'm looking into this truck, the more I'm finding random things that have been cut, moved, left behind in other miscellaneous things that seem to not have a home.

This truck was gifted to me. Returning it would have burned a big bridge. Now it's the gift that keeps on taking. Either I deal with it, fix it, make it safe and functional to the best of my abilities or I don't drive the damn thing and it's an expensive lawn ornament. Had I taken it to a mechanic yes, would have been easier but I'm not willing to spend several thousands of dollars because that's how much labor would have been for everything I have had to do to this truck. Original owner didn't do any maintenance apparently.

 

[Lipstickonapig]

I didnt fix it yet.

 

[Schurkey]

I fixed it.

Details, please.

 

[Lipstickonapig]

hot wired the solenoid and drive it. Ran like a beast, gauges all good.

12v on dash with new battery.

Drove a few miles, engine cut out.

All fuses except 5a crank have power. Crank had none when key pushed fwd for "ignition." All fuses test 0 ohms, closed circuit. Tried new fuses for battery and ignition anyways, no dice.

Old ignition switch replaced because why not. Both red wires 255 and 256 were hot. Yellow hot when key pushed to ignition yet no click, no crank.

No power to clutch safety switch

All fusible links at junction box showed 12v hot at end term to box, and hot below that on actual link, and hot below that on wire that precedes link.

Can't remember if hangy-downy, no-home yellow&purple free wire in the cab near fuse box was hot or not with ignition, I want to say not hot. It is too short to reach fuse box and the harness does not match the only open terminal it might fit.

Still no click, no start. Solenoid does show 12v with light tester when key push fwd for ignition.

New starter. New battery. New clutch switch. New ignition switch.

Rod from Ignition cylinder is hooked up and functioning. (Manually trying to start truck bypassing ignition cylinder didn't work either.)

Additional back story and sequence of events: first time this wouldn't start (no click) I then finagled the tilt steering wheel I think, pushed the clutch in and then she ran. (Had it in neutral before I finagled the wheel and it didn't click.) I had just gotten done flushing coolant, installed new thermostat, cleaned ground contacts and stud that sits by thermostat. Few days later, drove truck 25 miles no problem. Next day drove 2 miles, came home to park while running, pushed park brake and that broke so I shut her off, mins later started her up to move it and shut her down. Made a trip to inspect park brake cable and front brake lever in cab. Few days later no click, no start.

PLAN:
1. Back track yellow from ignition switch to understand where that comes from.
2. Find what is connected to "crank" fuse slot.
3. Pop distributor cap look for corrosion because I should regardless on this old pig.
4. Understand how distributor Is wired hot and if that cut out and shut me down when driving. (Never happened before.)
5. Whatever I forgot or get told to do.

 

[Lipstickonapig]

Okay all - there is actually TWO CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCHES. What I thought was the part in question had two tiny little brownish wires and mounted on the top side of clutch pedal for the front of the pedal to hit. The actual clutch safety switch in my truck was nowhere to be found. I found a mysterious half of the clutch safety switch and the casing was never in there. The previous owner must have torn it apart and never secured the wiring harness in there -he couldn't have because there was only half of the switch.

We finally figured out what I'm calling "the cruise control switch" had to be disengaged and the actual lower clutch safety switch with purple and yellow wires has to be depressed for the vehicle to turn over. This allows purple wire to be hot which then feeds the crank circuit and she runs.

Jeepers.

 

[GoToGuy]

It would help a lot if you used the Factory service manual. If you don't have it, your battle is half lost.
Yeah based on the hours of guessing your labor rate would be in the thousands. If you'd used the FSM the starter circuit diagram is fairly easy to read. And yes the chances of wiring butchery are a risk with any used vehicle. As for learning curve you would stay ahead using the correct applicable information. The FSM will show circuit diagram in plain English. Wire size, circuit color. The location the wire loom runs though out the truck. If, if you read the FSM it's as good as someone watching over your shoulder. I understand everybody wants instant answers, reading creates memories and learning. In eng thread are links for free FSM downloads almost every year, and factory repair ( rebuilding items) manuals. Good luck.

 

[Schurkey]

We finally figured out what I'm calling "the cruise control switch" had to be disengaged and the actual lower clutch safety switch with purple and yellow wires has to be depressed for the vehicle to turn over. This allows purple wire to be hot which then feeds the crank circuit and she runs.

Any chance the "Cruise Control Switch" should be on the brake pedal instead of the clutch pedal?

On my '88, the cruise switch and the brake light switch are combined. I think that's fairly common--the cruise control is supposed to disengage when the brakes are applied.

But on a manual-trans vehicle, maybe the cruise is supposed to ALSO disengage when the clutch pedal is pressed.

As said: The service manual tells all.

 

[Lipstickonapig]

It would help a lot if you used the Factory service manual. If you don't have it, your battle is half lost.
Yeah based on the hours of guessing your labor rate would be in the thousands. If you'd used the FSM the starter circuit diagram is fairly easy to read. And yes the chances of wiring butchery are a risk with any used vehicle. As for learning curve you would stay ahead using the correct applicable information. The FSM will show circuit diagram in plain English. Wire size, circuit color. The location the wire loom runs though out the truck. If, if you read the FSM it's as good as someone watching over your shoulder. I understand everybody wants instant answers, reading creates memories and learning. In eng thread are links for free FSM downloads almost every year, and factory repair ( rebuilding items) manuals. Good luck.

Have it thanks.

The problem was nobody considered the actual clutch safety switch was long gone and that there was actually 2 of the same switches. The actual switch was not in there. What was in there was half of a random something that later fell onto the floor board because as life would have it, someone didn't fully connect the harness nor did they securely seat the switch to the mounting bracket.

I searched the GM manual with search terms in the PDF. Takes time and when you think you finally found what you needed, the figure isn't easily distinguishable, the wiring diagram has several versions for same vehicle, or you just plain aren't looking in the right place in one of 4 PDF sections of said manual. AND doing all on a smartphone is not convenient.

Paper Haynes manual was incomplete for this job.

I live and learn. Then I share what I learn before someone else has to stuggle.

 

[AK49BWL]

Any chance the "Cruise Control Switch" should be on the brake pedal instead of the clutch pedal?

On my '88, the cruise switch and the brake light switch are combined. I think that's fairly common--the cruise control is supposed to disengage when the brakes are applied.

But on a manual-trans vehicle, maybe the cruise is supposed to ALSO disengage when the clutch pedal is pressed.

As said: The service manual tells all.

Yes, the clutch and brake pedals both disengage cruise control.