Radiator upgrade

[1998 K1500 Bubbles]

Gmt400 trucks are pretty common at my local junkyard so I could probably find the brackets and fan shroud for a 454 radiator. If I got the brackets and decided to order a new low neck 454 radiator which one would be ideal?

 

[99xcss4]

https://www.summitracing.com/search...tOrder=Ascending&keyword=radiator&kr=radiator https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-621-515/make/chevrolet

 

[SAATR]

You need to perform a bit more troubleshooting before condemning the radiator. First and foremost, check the temperature differential across the radiator. A cheap, $20 infrared temp gun will suffice for measuring. Check the temp of the radiator inlet (top hose) and radiator outlet (bottom hose). Less than around 10F difference between the temperatures and you have a cooling capacity problem, which is usually an airflow issue: plugged fins, weak clutch, incorrect shroud or fan, etc. More than 30 to 40F, and you have a flow issue: radiator core internally restricted, collapsed hose, thermostat not fully opening, faulty water pump impeller, etc. The range of acceptable temperature differentials is largely dependent on the cooling package design and application, so these aren't hard numbers. They will, however, give you a clue as to why you're having the issue and where to look.

 

[Carlaisle]

You washed out the condenser and any other coolers in front of the radiator, too, correct? Have you used a scan tool to verify the coolant temperature reported to the ECM? The dash gauge has a separate sending unit from the one that reports to the ECM. Fan clutch could also be dead/dying.

 

[1998 K1500 Bubbles]

You washed out the condenser and any other coolers in front of the radiator, too, correct? Have you used a scan tool to verify the coolant temperature reported to the ECM? The dash gauge has a separate sending unit from the one that reports to the ECM. Fan clutch could also be dead/dying.

I washed out all the coolers in the cooling stack on the truck. The temp gauge reads correctly, I plugged in my scan tool and the temp on the gauge and the scan tool match. I’m pretty sure the fan clutch works because if the temp is around 210 or above when I start from a stop the fan sounds like a jet engine. Just the other day it was 100 degrees out and after sitting at idle for 5-10 minutes it was at 240. Once I started going after than I could watch the temp gauge drop back down to 210 in about 10 minutes. I should also mention that I was towing 7500 lbs at the time. It doesn’t ever get hot while driving but if sitting at idle it gets hot.

 

[99xcss4]

one of these https://www.summitracing.com/compare

 

[99xcss4]

one of these https://www.summitracing.com/search...er=Ascending&keyword=fan+clutch&kr=fan+clutch

 

[CrustyOldDog]

Surprised no one has suggested that you check/replace/upgrade your fan clutch to severe duty, unless I missed that in the thread.

 

[Hyper_Fuze]

Surprised no one has suggested that you check/replace/upgrade your fan clutch to severe duty, unless I missed that in the thread.

Yes it was mentioned VVV

I would swap to a 454 radiator 11 blade fan and a hd fan clutch and swap in a 180 degree thermostat

That's essentially beefing up the entire system. If he has a problem after that i'd consider checking if the temp sensor is actually accurate O.O

 

[skylark]

Make sure that the fan is actually pulling air from the radiator not blowing it back at the radiator.