Putting a Caprice engine (L05-7) into a 92 g30 van (has L80e trans)

[Danboquist]

Well, the the engine is in and hooked up. This is the plan.. Any issues?
1. I’m not going to install the alternator or AC compressor yet. I dont think that I need to for the initial startup. Less junk to deal with if I have any problems.
2. I will hook up a radiator for water and transmission lines.
3. I dont know about initial timing. Most of what Ive seen people say set at 30 before TDC. That is where Ill set it to install the distributor.
4. The break in will be to run at 1500-2000 RPM until it reaches operating temperature, then turn it off and let it cool. Do this 3 times.
5. I’m thinking I can smooth out the timing/running during this without necessary trying to dial it in with a timing light. I’m thinking that once I get past this little startup/breaking thing then I can dial in the timing with a timing light. Less to deal with on the startup.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I dont know about initial timing. Most of what Ive seen people say set at 30 before TDC. That is where Ill set it to install the distributor.

TLR are you running a flat tappet cam? A roller cam doesn't need break in.

Are you going to run it without the BLK/TAN EST wire disconnected or, aren't you running the OE ignition system? Otherwise, you set it at TDC on the compression and start it up. If it doesn't run right, play with the distributor some.

 

[Schurkey]

No alternator, no A/C means no serpentine belt...which means no water pump turning which also means no cooling fan turning, the engine overheats and is ruined.

As said...roller cam means no real need for cam/lifter break-in. If this is still running the TBI, ignition timing is static-timed at TDC or a few degrees advanced (better advanced than retarded for start-up) with the timing connector STILL CONNECTED, and then when the engine is running reliably, you're going to shut it off, disconnect the timing connector, start the engine, set the timing to where it's supposed to be with the timing light. Shut it off again, connect the timing connector, disconnect the battery for ten seconds to clear the code. Reconnect the battery and start the engine again. Verify that the timing advances to 10--15 degrees so you know that the electronic advance is working.

Some folks go wild with "priming" the oil system. I'm at the point where I don't plan to prime my next engine at all. I've come to believe that it's more ritual than an effective, worthwhile procedure. If you do prime the oil system, it shouldn't take more than thirty seconds...you're DONE when you see oil pressure on the gauge, or feel the sudden increase in resistance when spinning the priming tool. The priming, turn the crankshaft, prime some more, turn the crankshaft, prime some more...is just crazy.

Have a garden hose ready so you can mist the radiator if the temperature goes too high. This should not be a problem...but better safe than sorry, and of course you have the option of just shutting the engine off.

 

[Danboquist]

I understand that the cam/lifters do not need a break-in the heat up and cool down cycle is to harden the parts in the head.. the rockers esp. Seems like a good idea.
The engine will not overheat as it will not be run with the thermostat open. Once it reaches operating temp (195) the engine will be shut down and let cool down.
Once I see that the engine will actually run without any problems with my mechanic work, I’ll hook up the accessories and drive belt.
I just dont want to have to take all of that crap back off if there is some sort of immediate problem.
So Ill just set at tdc for startup and adjust the distributor to get it to run ok up to about 2000 rpm. That is easier than setting the initial advance.
-> The lifter specs said to adjust them at 1/2 turn after removing the lash. That is a little scary. I’m wondering if I should just give them another 1/4 turn just to be safe?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

The lifter specs said to adjust them at 1/2 turn after removing the lash. That is a little scary. I’m wondering if I should just give them another 1/4 turn just to be safe?

No need, if they're too loose you'll hear the lifters tapping. Then you can shut it off and adjust. If you have them too tight, your valves won't close all the way and make your engine hard, or impossible, to start.

the heat up and cool down cycle is to harden the parts in the head.. the rockers esp. Seems like a good idea.

Sorry, I've never heard of that.

 

[Schurkey]

There is no "hardening" of the parts during break-in.

You MUST have the water pump functional if the engine is running more than a few seconds--localized hot-spots especially in the cylinder heads can cause cracking. Therefore, you MUST have the serpentine belt in place.

 

[Danboquist]

No need, if they're too loose you'll hear the lifters tapping. Then you can shut it off and adjust. If you have them too tight, your valves won't close all the way and make your engine hard, or impossible, to start.

Sorry, I've never heard of that.

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[Danboquist]

There is no "hardening" of the parts during break-in.

You MUST have the water pump functional if the engine is running more than a few seconds--localized hot-spots especially in the cylinder heads can cause cracking. Therefore, you MUST have the serpentine belt in place.

OK. I thought that with the thermostat closed the water pump would not circulate water in the engine.

 

[Schurkey]

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Enormously more important with stiff valve springs and flat-tappet cams.

Not a "bad" idea, but not nearly as useful/helpful/critical with stock or mild springs.

OK. I thought that with the thermostat closed the water pump would not circulate water in the engine.

Of course it circulates. The engine either has drilled passages for coolant bypass, or external plumbing for coolant bypass, or both.

TBI engines generally have both the internal, drilled passage on the right cylinder bank; and the entire heater core circuit to keep coolant moving and thus avoid localized hot-spots.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Get a short belt to run around the crank pulley, water pump and tensioner.

That is also way too much timing. Even with the EST bypass open the module will add about 22* of timing at 2,000 rpm. That puts you at 52*. I would set it around 10-12* BTDC if you plan to leave the EST bypass open.

With water recirculating through the system I was easily able to keep mine cool with a garden hose when I test ran it.

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