Putting a Caprice engine (L05-7) into a 92 g30 van (has L80e trans)

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Schurkey

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Of the two bolts that were broken off I only need the upper one (I managed to break off an extractor in the bottom one.. glad that I don't have to deal with that).
It would be good practice to remove both broken bolts.

I need to preserve these threads.. should I take it to a machine shop or mechanic shop to finish getting this out? I can't mess this up.
In MY driveway, I'd weld some 5/8" or 3/4" nuts to those broken bolt stubs, and see if they'd spin out after they cool from the welding.
 

Danboquist

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It would be good practice to remove both broken bolts.


In MY driveway, I'd weld some 5/8" or 3/4" nuts to those broken bolt stubs, and see if they'd spin out after they cool from the welding.
Would you weld washers to it first, then weld bolts to the washers?
 

Schurkey

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I wouldn't (intentionally) weld washers to the bolt shanks.

I might use washers under the nuts as a shield so the surrounding iron of the block isn't accidentally melted.

But my intention is to attach the nuts to the broken shanks, not to attach the washers to the shanks.
 

Erik the Awful

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Soak the bolts with penetrant. It might get into the threads to loosen it up, it might not, but it doesn't hurt. Center punch the bolt to keep your bit from wandering and then use a 1/8" drill bit to drill a pilot hole down the center of each bolt. Follow with the largest drill bit that won't get into the threads. Use an extractor. Use your senses. If the bolt isn't turning, but the extractor is flexing hard, stop. You really don't want to break the extractor off in the hole.

If it doesn't want to come out, use a solid (not spring loaded) center punch and a small hammer. Try and spin the bolt remnants out by pushing it around with the punch and hammer. You'd be surprised how well it works.

The last resort before the machine shop is to try and use the center punch and hammer to collapse the outer shell of the bolt inward to loosen it.

I almost forgot that I shot a video on this.

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Danboquist

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Soak the bolts with penetrant. It might get into the threads to loosen it up, it might not, but it doesn't hurt. Center punch the bolt to keep your bit from wandering and then use a 1/8" drill bit to drill a pilot hole down the center of each bolt. Follow with the largest drill bit that won't get into the threads. Use an extractor. Use your senses. If the bolt isn't turning, but the extractor is flexing hard, stop. You really don't want to break the extractor off in the hole.

If it doesn't want to come out, use a solid (not spring loaded) center punch and a small hammer. Try and spin the bolt remnants out by pushing it around with the punch and hammer. You'd be surprised how well it works.

The last resort before the machine shop is to try and use the center punch and hammer to collapse the outer shell of the bolt inward to loosen it.

I almost forgot that I shot a video on this.

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Nice video man.
 

Danboquist

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Solution to the thermostat problem..
The NAPA guy in town dug back in his parts area and found a ~!59mm thermostat with the rubber gasket to fit my intake. Balkamp 372-195. $7.
 

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Danboquist

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I didn’t think that it would work, but it did.
Drilled about halfway down, put a punch in there and banged on it a couple of times, and used a left handed drill bit.. came right out.
- it had also been soaked in wd40 for a few days while i have been messing with it.
What a relief. Nobody wanted this job
 

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Schurkey

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Excellent. Now try the other one.

I'm not going to re-read the entire thread...this is a rebuilt short-block? Looks to me like there's a warranty-confirming thermal tattle-tale glued to the soft plug in the photo above.
 

Danboquist

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Excellent. Now try the other one.

I'm not going to re-read the entire thread...this is a rebuilt short-block? Looks to me like there's a warranty-confirming thermal tattle-tale glued to the soft plug in the photo above.
Yes it was rebuilt. I’m guessing maybe 50k since it was rebuilt. Started having a lifter issue. Turns out it is roller ready so I’m switching over to rollers.. It’s ready to install now. Last thing is to adjust the lifters.
 
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