Post your lifted regular cab with >6" of lift

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boy&hisdogs

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I have an ext cab but I do have a 6" lift and 37s. I have the Zone 6" lift, which is actually the full 6" unlike the RCX which is closer to 5" and you crank up or down to get 4-6. 6" is about as big as lift kits get, I know others were made that were bigger but I don't know if they are still available. Full throttle seems to still sell theirs, but they are crazy expensive. https://ftskits.com/lift-kits/chevy-gmc/truck/1988-1998-1500.html

If you want 37s on a 6" lift you will either need to trim or get a body lift. There's some guys out there with a 6" suspension +3" body lift running 37-40 inch tires, or you could get a smaller body lift and trim just a little. Exactly how much you need to trim depends on how wide you get with your tires/wheels. The wider they are, the more you will need to trim.

If you are dead set on going over 6" and want 37s or bigger I'd say to consider doing a SAS. There's a reason there aren't really kits bigger than 6" for these trucks, the front end can't handle it. You will be replacing ball joints, tie rod ends, etc every couple of years, and alignments will be a constant battle. Ask me how I know. :3811797817_8d685371

As someone who has 37s, 35s are better. They fit better, they are cheaper, you get more choices, and they don't wear the truck quite as hard. If you are dead set on 37s, then I get it, I was too. Just be ready for what it entails.

This is what my trimming looks like, I cut the bumper and the fender below the trim strip. You'd hardly notice if you didn't know it was there.

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BonestockK1500

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Well, I hate to be the old guy to say it…but I wouldn’t lift it…..it’ll never be the same again

But I understand if that’s what you think you want and you just have to do it….consider:

-change your gear ratio to be compatible with a 37 inch tire, don’t run them on some 3.08 highway gear setup

-Make sure 4wd still works after the lift..don’t turn a K into a C just to lift

-be prepared to invest in upgraded front end and steering components and extra ongoing maintenance on those parts that may wear faster

-Pay attention to drive shaft angles and be prepared to wear out and replace u-joints

-Pay up for proper rear springs instead of just throwing in lift blocks

- don’t pull yourself into the cab by putting all your weight on the steering column now that it’s more difficult to get in

-Now you may need a 37 inch spare tire also , it’s probably not going to fit under the bed where the factory spare stowed

-Don’t go extreme offsets or wheel spacers

-provide for enough slack in brake lines and make sure the e-brake remains functional

-body lift will help get you 3-inches , but do you really want a body lift?

-calibrate speedo so it reads properly with new setup

Essentially, pay attention to all of the little important things that co$t extra to keep it safe and functional and don’t have anything to do with cool tires and lift components… in other words just have fun with it ! :)

Not hating on lifts, just giving you my perspective having been through it before. Good luck and enjoy, and share some pics of your progress.
 

boy&hisdogs

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Ive seen this a couple times recently, measurements not on hand, but GM basically put a 5-6" steel spacer on dually's, lol. Just sayin.

It's not quite the same. That's a bigger, heavier duty truck with a little stock tire. Dually spacers put the tire back to normal within the fender, not sticking way out like most people use spacers for.
 

KansasOBS

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Its still providing the same leverage as a spacer in any application. The comment didn't include wheel specifications. You can run an extreme negative offset with some 12" wide tires, and no spacers yet still be impacting suspension components. A blind "spacers sucks" is FUD.

Same goes with blocks also, depends on how you're driving. If a person isn't experiencing axle wrap, and wheel hop for what they use the truck for, then $500+ for springs is just wasted money.
 
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