Need Help With '95 K1500 5.7L TBI Electrical

[Mainegirl1980]

I have a 1995 Chevy K1500 5.7L TBI with 174,000 miles my father gave me. I have done everything myself getting her back on the road including a completely new cooling system. I've been driving it as my daily driver until a short time ago. I came home during a rain storm and parked my truck. The next morning I went to start it to go back to work and I had the IGN A fuse go bad. I knew the starter was old so I replaced that. When I replaced it I noticed the positive cable had gotten melted on the manifold and I fixed the cord with new connectors. I have a new starter, just put in a new ignition switch and still no start. I got out my light up tester and half of my fuse box has no lights. The side with all the Maxi fuses has no power but all the fuses are fine. What would be the best choice of action...
I've been repairing just about everything from fishing boats to wiring entire homes so I know a few things. But this has me stressed out. Did I mention I parked right behind my boyfriend's charter boat and I need to get it moved ASAP!

 

[WICruiser-97]

The fuse block feed needs to be traced back to the source, probably the battery, to determine where it failed.

 

[Schurkey]

Yup. The positive battery cable probably comprises two or three individual cables all tied to the same battery terminal. The main cable goes to the starter, smaller cables go to accessories such as the fusebox. There may/may not be a failed fusible link spliced into the battery cable that feeds the Maxifuses. If so, fusible link wire is available at any auto-parts store, or--more likely--just replace the entire battery cable with an OEM-style new cable.

Download the service manual set for your vehicle (Includes wiring diagrams) from the links in the Sticky thread section of the Engine forum of this web-site.

 

[Mainegirl1980]

I think I figured out my problem and checked the electrical diagram in my service manual I have for the truck. My father gave me all the service manuals that were made for the truck plus the updates for them. I'm at work right now and I'm chomping at the bit to get home to test my theory. But I believe the fusible link going to the alternator is fried. It all makes sense looking at the diagram. The only problem is the part GM 12157435 is discontinued and as much as I rather replace a factory cable I may have to get out my electrical tools and fittings and splice in a new fusible link to my cable.

 

[Mainegirl1980]

Nope that didn't work. Alternator is fine and the fusible link is still good. Not sure what to do now.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

That just means that particular stretch of wiring is good. Keep tracing the circuits where you've got blown fuses. Be sure to check the battery cable where it connects to the battery for green crusties. If it's still got the OEM cable on it, they like to corrode inside the rubberish sleeve, giving the illusion that they're OK. I think everything electrical was revised for '95, and I've never worked on one of these later than a '92. But like others have said, follow the cables feeding the fuse boxes and affected circuits and see what shakes loose. Check grounds and look for wires with damaged insulation which could be shorting out. That's what I'd do and I'm a dum-dum.

 

[WICruiser-97]

Look at the wiring diagrams to find the source of power for the fuse block that is dead. I suspect it comes from the multi-cable positive battery terminal but I don't have a diagram to refer to. There is a lot of mega fuses that do not have power so the wire is going to be a decent size/guage. As DerekTheGreat said the battery cables can be corroded inside so check voltage at the fuse block end that seems dead and then work backward to the battery connection.

 

[Mainegirl1980]

The whole side of the fuse box under the hood has no power going to any of the maxi fuses. I have the diagnostic manual and going through things between doing my paperwork in my office I am wondering if maybe something in the convenience center fuse block could have an issue in it. Since my starter is new, ignition switch is new, battery is new and the alternator is new and no issues with those items that maybe the issue is in that spot. Just wish I was home to chase wires. I'm an odd girl I enjoy getting dirty instead of acting like a "typical girl".

 

[Road Trip]

The whole side of the fuse box under the hood has no power going to any of the maxi fuses. I have the diagnostic manual and going through things between doing my paperwork in my office I am wondering if maybe something in the convenience center fuse block could have an issue in it. Since my starter is new, ignition switch is new, battery is new and the alternator is new and no issues with those items that maybe the issue is in that spot. Just wish I was home to chase wires. I'm an odd girl I enjoy getting dirty instead of acting like a "typical girl".

That's a solid clue. While helping another member with a missing power issue in the vicinity of
the Underhood Fuse Block, I happened to post a few photos that might give you a better idea
of how the power flows through this device. Follow this link in order to see them: ('95+ UFB photos)

For what it's worth, if you go forward and backward a few replies you will see additional pics & misc
about how the Underhood Fuse Block is laid out.

Hope this proves helpful. I am confident that between the all of us you should be able to
successfully figure out what's up and how to recover from it.

Best of luck with the hunt for the missing power --

 

[Mainegirl1980]

Thank you so much! I'll check that out once I catch up with some of this paperwork here.