IHC drop arms suburban finished pics

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A97obs

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Thought I’d show this Install how I did it what was used and changes along the way it Wasn’t to bad. I got it about where I want it .

IHC suspension sent me one lower drop arm with the sway bar end link mount Welded in the wrong position throwing off the ability to align and mount the front sway bar end links …

That might be the only part on the arms that are not welded right from a jig… I’m going to inquire about that to me it’s a big ‘mess up but I didn’t realize it until I did the entire install. I Might cut / relocate it an weld it or get a replacement arm as I probably should since it’s life time warranty

Rear was flipped but I had to use lift shackles and bell tech hangers to get it right for the type of wheel offset 275/60s . I Went with load levelers too raised it 0.5” keeps it firm for towing and passenger weight. I’ll be adding airlift helper bags soon
Tires wheels wont tuck so couldn’t really slam it as it probably would be… But that can be done with changing out the tires to a narrower width or changing to 4.5”-5” backspace wheel .
Over all it is where I think it looks good . Front is a true 3” drop with just drop arms only, kept stock spring shock and spindle . The Rear I have no Clue where it ended up I assume after the flip and slight lift 6-7” drop but it is level. It was dragging bumper before I added the needed lift components


IHC Drop Arms
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Belltech lift hanger
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A97obs

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Additional pics of drop lift combination components “suburban”


eBay flip kit universal
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Load leveler shocks

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adjutable Lift shackle to help adjust flip height precisely
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A97obs

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That’s perfect!
Definitely is a lot more involved in lowering than lifting I’ve sorely found out lol!! It was a tight tolerance with these drag pack type of wide tires and the offset I didn’t consider a lot up front the wheel purchase until after the fact so it ended up not a total slammed burb . If I wanna go lower I’ll swap wheels out one day and add the stock rear shackles that simple .

I did notice some concerns me and my buddy noticed about the steering lock to lock without having any lower steering stops. It turns pretty far out and seemingly puts some pressure on the gear box with the ability to over steer and nothing to really stop it from “over steering”
Maybe the narrow track width play as a part but front tire choice really is key
 

95burban

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Yeah it takes a lot to lower a truck correctly. Yours is perfect, and the wheels with the raised white letters are the cherry on top. I have those same wheels on my car hauler, but mine are 17s
 

someotherguy

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Looking good..

But why is there a mix of hardware on your u-bolts? I see nyloc nuts, and castle nuts. The castle nuts may not stay tight; they're designed for applications where a hole is drilled in the fastener so you can install a cotter pin to keep them from loosening.

Richard
 

A97obs

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Looking good..

But why is there a mix of hardware on your u-bolts? I see nyloc nuts, and castle nuts. The castle nuts may not stay tight; they're designed for applications where a hole is drilled in the fastener so you can install a cotter pin to keep them from loosening.

Richard
Yea I know it looks odd. The flip kit sent me one odd ball larger U-bolt and missing hardware to match that U bolt believe it not. I used the castle nuts I had around just to get things in place . I ordered a replacement sent out and put it on today intact as an update !
….“ 8 Nylocs “ torqued to spec
 
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A97obs

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It looks like you will have to roll or cut the inner fender lips off before they contact the tires and damage them.
Well yes in the fronts I didn’t think I would but I did . No rub with just me driving but passenger weight and no sway bar a good bump it hit .
I rolled the fenders in front it’s perfect now even over the worst railroad tracks .
Rear is good as it is ..it could stand to be lower imho plenty of drop left …but I don’t know if rolling the rears would matter it still won’t tuck with the offet wheel/ tire size I went with.

Most conflicting part of the whole experience..IHC sent me a Lca with Tilted end link mount.. which is a pretty big mess up for a 600$ set of arms , considering things happen ..Truck drives good so far looks normal, but who’s to say about the geometry of these arms anybody thinking about them taking note on that.
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misaligned end link mount smh.. I can’t run my front sway for now unless I cut / re align and weld or get a replacement lower arm.
 

95burban

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Djm arms are the same way, i still haven’t corrected mine.
 
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