I got a DC Engineering 250 amp alt..

[Merc1500]

And I will post my experience after the install and let you guys know how it is. Currently the issues I am having right now is gauge dip with my subs going. I haven't had any lights dimming that I've noticed. Also I will be getting a winch on the front so I want something that will be able to handle the load.

 

[low4x4]

what you need is a capacitor for the amp...to help when the sub is hard hiting

 

[barebones 1500]

i would steer clear of capacitors, i have used some before and although it did keep from killing my battery and alternator i still had the dimming lights. since you have the alternator, do it.

 

[DRAGGIN95]

Be sure to do the big 3 if you haven't already!

 

[Butch]

Be sure to do the big 3 if you haven't already!

X2 will also help in taking full advantage of the bigger alt.

 

[FastOrange]

what you need is a capacitor for the amp...to help when the sub is hard hiting

you do NOT need a CRAPACITOR. they do nothing.

 

[CodyB]

A capacitor is used to take the AC ripple out of the top end of your positive and the bottom end of your negative. It doesn't help if you do not have the charging system to back it up like most people would assume, since it needs to be recharged as soon as it drains.

Basically if you were to hook up an oscilloscope to your charging system you would see something like this at the top of the positive "line"

__^__^__^__^__^__^__^__^__^

Due to the alternator actually creating a 12 volt AC current and using diodes to separate out the Direct current. A capacitor would just smooth that out.

--^--^--^--^--^--^--^ or possibly flatten it out all together. ____________________

Thats how it was explained to me, and I hope that helps you. Your best off getting a high powered alternator and running multiple batteries to negate the large current draw from the amps which in turn causes light to dim. The batteries act as a buffer and store the charge, if you can, placing one as close to the amps as possible is the ideal way of doing this, so the alternator is sending the charge to the battery and not having the current "sucked" out of it strait to the amp causing more wear and tear since the amplifier is not a constant draw but fluctuates.

If your going to run multiple batteries, I would use two of the same batteries, same models is best. If you have two different batteries, they will fight each other and discharge. You can put a shut off relay in between the two to keep that from happening, but why not spend that money on two of the same ones since those kits usually cost as much or more than a traditional battery.

Also if its going to be in cab with you, it HAS to be sealed. This is not optional since traditional batteries leak acid and noxious fumes while charging and discharging. One major benefit of sealed batteries is they can be mounted any way you want.

You may already know all this, but I'm just tossing that out there for anyone else browsing through.

 

[Merc1500]

^ Wow thank you for the very informative post. I do already have a capacitor in my system which is keeping anything from dieing and my lights from dimming so it is doing it's job. But my gauges are bouncing around as the subs hit. Also as I mentioned in my op I will be getting a winch, and the last thing I need is an electrical system failure while trying to retrieve myself or somebody else off-roading just because I wanted to hear some music at the same time. I do plan on doing the big 3 even though to me it seems quite daunting. The most wiring I have ever done was a head unit.

 

[Merc1500]

Does any body have any pic's of the big 3 done in an OBS?